Boat Cushion Upholstery

 

Salon Bench Back Before B&W

This is one of ten cushions I reupholstered for a powerboat. At left is the “before” photo, the largest cushion of the bunch, measuring at 48” x 18”. I didn’t feel it was necessary to include all the cushions, but wanted to share how I reupholstered them.

Salon Bench After with Navy Fabric

These cushions, like many boat cushions, were split into two sections which run horizontally through
the center, as shown above in the original black and white cushion. This is where it is split. This process allows the manufacturer to use two different fabrics, but it also allows the fabric to be attached to the curve of the back without compromising structure. 

These two fabrics are sewn together at the center seam. The first step is to make sure both sections sewn together fits the cushion’s curve properly. It should line up with the outer edge of the cushion. Then a vinyl or leather “tab” is sewn right on top of both seams. I used vinyl I had remaining from a previous job and measured a 4-1/2” x 43” section to stitch to the fabric. This is what gets pulled downward and attached to the cushion’s base. (These cushions were attached to a thick acrylic base instead of wood and were heavy, but not too bad to work with).

Once you establish the fabric size is correct, put your fabric panel onto the top half of the cushion, stretching it over the top and back, then add a few temporary staples to the underside to keep the fabric from shifting. After you’ve added a few staples, you can staple the center leather or vinyl “tab,” while carefully pulling the fabric over the cushion on the top, easing it in position. Staple the upper sides to keep it from shifting. You can add more staples later and may have to remove the temporary ones to finalize its place. 

After the center tab has been completely stapled and secured, you can carefully pull the bottom portion of the fabric over the foam and continue to stretch and position it so it is as smooth as you can get it, attaching it with staples as you go. I have found that putting a few staples in strategic places allows you to keep adjusting the material until it is exactly where you want it, then you can complete the stapling process until everything is nice and snug. The slight puckering seen in the “after” photo will straighten itself out once the cushion it hung from its place on the boat. This is fine as the fabric needs a little bit of stretch to get it in position.

Underside of Cushion
showing tab stapling

My customer chose a lovely navy blue from Sunbrella®, perfect for boat cushions or outdoor patio seats. This fabric is mildew resistant and great for marine use. She opted for all cushions to be the same color instead of the two colors as it was originally. 

The cushions turned out great and surprisingly, the last two cushions I did, as shown on the one above, were the easiest ones of the bunch. Probably because by that time I picked up a few shortcuts from the previous cushions. Sewing cushions is not for the faint-hearted, as they require precise measuring, cutting and a lot of detailed sewing, but with patience and determination, this mission too, can be accomplished.

 

Mid-Century Modern Dining Room Set

Table Before Refinishing

Table After Refinishing

Lots of photos for this job! A lovely woman from Madison Heights had acquired this mid-century modern dining table and chairs at a church rummage sale. She didn't want to tackle the refinish and re-upholstery job herself, so she called me. After she brought the set over, I was excited to get to work.

This was indeed a unique table and after a few hours of sanding, it proved to be quite the challenge. I decided to research it because I'd never seen anything quite like it. Lo and behold, it was a stranded bamboo table top!

Captain Chair Before

Captain Chair After

Out of curiosity, I researched the hardness of wood. As most people know, oak is among one of the hardest of woods, but on a scale of 0-5, oak ranks only 3.4 on the hardness scale, whereas bamboo ranks an astounding 4.7! "Ah," I thought, that's why it took so long to strip and sand this incredible surface. Four days later and it was finally ready to be refinished. I used a "natural" stain and three coats of polyurethane.

She didn't want the chairs refinished, only cleaned, so I used a cleaner specifically for wood and hand-polished each chair. The cushions were another story. The original cushions were, well, ugly. The fabric was typical of a 1950's decor, scratchy and quite uncomfortable. That could be because there was simply nothing left of the once-soft foam rubber bits. They had completely disintegrated into a substance resembling yellow-green dust. I'm so glad I removed them outside!

Seat Cushion After

Seat Cushion Before

After the fabric was removed, I peeled away the former "cushioned" seats with a large putty knife to separate them from the wood base, then scraped the powdery substance into the trash. The very worst seat crumbled so bad, it was all powder! One of the seat bottoms had to be replaced with new plywood because it was cracked and anyone other than a five-year-old would have eventually landed on the floor.

Chair Before

Chair After

Once all that was accomplished, I completed took apart the old seat cushions and used them as templates for the new seats. (I'm glad I did as seats tend to be slightly varied in size.) It was a long, tedious task to be sure, but well worth it as the new seats fit perfectly. I ended up surprising the customer by adding a corded edge, original to the first seat cushion. This not only made the edge look better, it gave the seats a defined, linear finish and wasn't too difficult to incorporate into the fabric layout.

My customer was very satisfied with the dining set and I must say, it looks terrific in her kitchen (see photo below.) I hope she enjoys this unique dining room set for many years to come.

Table and Chairs at Customer's Home