Dining Room Chairs Re-Upholstered

Chair After

 

Chair Before

This set of four dining room chairs had outdated fabric, though it was still in pretty decent condition. The chairs were made in 1996, so the fabric was original. Not bad for 28 years old. However, my customer had wanted to update the material and chose a cream color, which looked very nice with the oak wood. 

Luckily the wood needed only a little bit of cleaning and touch-up, but nothing else. It was in really great condition. When you take care of your furniture, it shows. It also shows if furniture has not been taken care, of or had been badly used or abused. Each piece tells its own story.

For these chairs I had to invest in a new, long-nose pneumatic stapler because the backrest area of the chairs' top and bottom areas were hard to reach with my regular stapler. The long nose stapler is something I had been wanting to purchase sooner or later because there have been times recently where having one would have been pretty handy. I also found out the the staples are a completely different type that I had been using. Once I got all the stapler/staples issues figured out, I could proceed with my project of working on these four chairs.

Upon first seeing these chairs, I was unaware how to remove the back as there were no visible screws, nails or other fasteners. Once I removed the seat, it was a matter of using a flat screwdriver and loosening the bottom and hammering it upward to "lift" the back right out and pull if away from the groove at the top that it was pushed into. Once the backrest was out, I had to remove all those staples. One aspect of furniture restoration and refinishing that is time-consuming and painful is removing the original staples. After a while my right shoulder gets pretty sore, so I try not to do them all at once.

Installing the new fabric was not too difficult as I wrapped it around the backrest and stapled the inside edge so that the staples couldn't been seen. The top and bottom were a bit trickier because of the way it had to be lifted up and into, then hammered back into its original groove at the top. It was essential to line it up perfectly and hammer it in without breaking or splitting the wood. I decided to work on one chair at a time, completing the backrest first and then the seats. Each seat received new foam because the old foam was very worn out and not supportive at all. I also topped off the seat with a bit of quilt batting.

Because of the pattern, I wanted to make sure it lined up at the back of the seat and the bottom of the backing so it looked like a continuous line of material. I accomplished this by putting the seat in position once the backrest was installed then actually installing a couple of screws from the seat's underside to make sure the seat would end up where it was supposed to. Once that was secured, I placed the fabric on the cushion and lined it up with the backrest. 

I tacked the sides so that the fabric would stay in the right position, then proceeded to attach the seat fabric. It worked beautifully. After the material was secured, I finalized attaching it to the seats and finished off the seats' underside with chambray, the black fabric used as a dust cover in most chairs. For these type of chairs it serves as a finished look. The new fabric is very nice and updated as well as durable. I recommended my customer use Scotchguard to protect it from potential stains and she agreed.

Chairs Get New Spline Caning

Spline Cane Before

Spline Cane After

If someone were to ask what our most common refinishing job is, I’d have to answer “Chairs.” The reason is simple. We all use them, so we all have them and at some point in time, they will need to be either refinished, reupholstered, restored or in this case, re-caned. This dining chair was in need of a new spline caned back (only) as the seat covers would remain fabric (to be done at a later date).

This is one of a set of four chairs in need of new back cane. It is a “spline” cane style, which means that the back portion is made of a single sheet of caning then kept in place with a spline that keeps the cane sheet in place. This is the first time I have worked with this particular style of caning, which is known as Swedish woven. The difference between this type of cane and the more commonly seen antique cane is that these are double rows of perpendicular lines that criss-cross compared to “hole” style of cane.

When ordering caning supplies, it is very important to measure the width of the channel to get the right size of spline. If you order spline that is too large, it won’t fit into the channel, which can cause damage during the tapping which is an essential part of the installation. If you order spline that is smaller than the channel, it won’t fit tight enough to keep the cane from coming out, so ordering the proper size is key.

Cleaned out channel

The hardest part of this process is removing the old spline. For these chairs, I used a combination of tools; chisel, needle-nose pliers, wood-carving tools, hammer, and then later (after I ordered it) a spline-removal tool, which is exactly the perfect tool to get beneath the old spline and smack it until it lifts up. I then used a small chisel to loosen any remaining spline that stuck to the inside of the channel.

Note: Cane must be soaked prior to installation. I soaked the cane and

Soaking Cane in Tub

spline (in my bathtub) for over an hour. (My little cat, Sadie is supervising!) Soaking spline and cane together is necessary, so that the spline can be manipulated around the tight corners that bend along the edges of the chair. It is okay to leave the everything soaking while you continue to work on each chair. By the time you get to the last chair, your cane and spline will be pliable enough to work easily. The first one is always the hardest one to work on.

I used Frog tape to protect the chair from accidental scratches while removing the old spline. Once the spline was removed and the channel cleaned out, (see photo at left), it is ready to accept the new cane and spline, which gets tapped into place with hammer and caning wedges. This process is tedious and time consuming and you really must focus on the work, which means no distractions!

The basic dynamic of installation is the same as hole cane, but the challenge of this style is to keep the rows straight vertically as well as horizontally, as they tend to shift while you install the spline. Once you have tapped the cane down enough to accept the spline (keep it in place with caning wedges) you can then carefully apply clear drying glue into the channel, then follow it with the new spline, being conscious of carefully bending and fitting it around those tight corners. (If your chairs have larger curves, it is much easier to install spline).

Of the two ways of cane installation, spline or hand weave, this is the “easier” way to do it, but that doesn’t mean it’s simple. It takes precision, patience and the right tools to do it right.

School Desk Revival

Oak School Desk Before

While in Lexington, we came across this old oak school desk at an antique store. We got a great deal on it so we brought it home along with an antique China cabinet. This desk could have belonged to a teacher, as it was reminiscent of my early school experiences. It was in great condition, but definitely in need of refinishing. It was made of solid oak with only two drawers that at one time had dividers, long gone.

Oak School Desk After

It needed a great deal of sanding and stripping and proved to be quite a chore, but it was gorgeous when I completed the restoration. I chose a walnut finish and also to keep the wooden drawer pulls, as they kept the originality of the piece. The top had not been original to the desk, (although it looked like someone had replaced it quite some time ago), therefore it took the stain differently than the rest of the desk. Eventually we sold it to a family who lived only a block away from us. Since they had no way to get the desk home, so we gladly delivered it. They said they'd been looking for a desk such as this for their son's computer. It was a win/win situation!

Stripping Tips

Partially stripped spindle

Stripping furniture presents many unique challenges. It can be very simple, or it can be very difficult, but it's always rewarding to see the final product. It doesn't have to be a daunting task since there are techniques you can use to make it easier, so I've written this article to share with you the tricks of the trade that I've found work best for me, with excellent results. I hope this helps you overcome your fear of refinishing because it's worth it!

When stripping, it's important to protect your skin, since a good quality stripper not only removes the paint or stain from furniture, it can irritate your skin and burn when it makes contact. I recommend you use gloves especially crafted for working with chemicals. If you use the thinner, flexible Nitrile gloves commonly used for painting or staining, the stripper will disolve the rubber and expose your hand to the harsh chemical, causing it to burn. (If it doesn't burn your skin, it's not strong enough to remove the old finish!) To avoid this, use good quality gloves, and if you accidentally get stripping solution on your skin, wash and rinse it immediately! 

If you plan on stripping a large, flat surface, have plenty of stripper on hand, because you're going to need it. I prefer to pour the stripper into a smaller container, then apply it with an inexpensive paint brush. Follow the manufacturer's instructions on how long to leave the stripper on. Depending on how many layers you're removing, it could be from 15 to 30 minutes. The more layers you have to remove, the longer it takes and the more times you'll have to apply new stripper. In warm or hot weather, the chemical dries very fast, so don't try to cover an entire table. Choose a 12" x 12" section and finish that before moving on. Use the correct stripper for your project, since they are not created equally. Buy the best one you can afford, as this will save you time and give you better results. There are strippers specifically created for paint or stain, or both. I prefer the one that does it all. 

Once you have applied the stripper, you will see the paint or varnish bubble and crinkle on the surface. Take a putty knife and gently remove the stripper, going in one direction. You can use a plastic putty knife if you use a good quality stripper. A metal putty knife works well too, but be careful not to scratch the surface as you remove the old finishes. The layers of paint or stain will roll back away from the furniture as you swipe the putty knife across the surface, so you'll also have to use something to wipe the excess stripper/paint onto. I prefer a stiff piece of cardboard, or a thin piece of wood. Scrap off the debris, then swipe it into an empty coffee can. (You cannot reuse this, so dispose of it properly when your project is complete).

After you've removed as much paint/varnish as possible with the stripper, you can then use steel wool, #0, on flat surfaces, or a brass wire brush on curved surfaces, (sold at most home centers or hardware stores) to scrape off the residue left behind. Once you're satisfied that the residue is removed, you're ready to sand. The photo (above left) shows the arm of the chair after the old stain and varnish were removed and the spindle with the original finish. The old finish was so dark, you couldn't see any wood grain. Once the old finish was removed, the wood's natural beauty was revealed.

While working on this chair I also used paint thinner to "loosen" up and moisten the wood prior to applying the stripper, thus I discovered a solution to a dilemma that I'd been having since I first began furniture restoration; easily removing old finish from spindles! By applying the thinner shortly after applying the stripper, these two strong chemicals worked as a team to break through years and years of finish. As you can see in the photo below, together, they "melted" the old varnish right off the chair's leg so that it could easily be wiped away with a rag. Once this task was accomplished, I gently used the brass brush and steel wool to remove the old residue.
Then it was ready to sand and stain. I chose a red mahogany stain and semi-gloss polyurethane, and reupholstered the seat cushion with a traditional floral print. The hard work paid off since the chair is great!

Removing old finish

Finished Chair

Antique Chair Refinished

Kalamazoo House

Chair Before

Jim and I love Kalamazoo! It is rich with history, art and music. Our second trip to Kalamazoo was this February, 2012. Like the first time we were there last February, we stayed at "The Kalamazoo House," a beautiful Bed & Breakfast in the heart of downtown, right next to the Kalamazoo Institute of Arts. The Kalamazoo House is a gorgeous three-story structure, Victorian Era Renovated building that was once a funeral home. The owners, Laurel and Terry Parrot, are extremely friendly and welcoming. You feel as though you're visiting friends while staying at the Kalamazoo House. I highly recommend this place if you love to be pampered. They serve amazing breakfasts, too!

So, while in Kalamazoo in February, Jim and I made the decision that we'd definitely want to come back sometime in the summer months to explore the surroundings. But one thing we did find was an amazing antique furniture salvage store that had a ton of lovely antique furniture and hardware, perfect for those who love restoration as much as we do. I spotted this lovely chair in that store. I felt instantly attracted to it, and simply had to have it.

Well, that weekend Jim and I drove his Grand Prix instead of the mini-van which is the vehicle we

Chair During

usually drive when we're traveling because we never know when we're going to come across something that wants to come home with us (such as this lovely chair!) I realized that I'd have to pass on it unless we could make it fit into the back seat of his car, so the owner was nice enough to let us remove the chair from her store to try it out and make sure it fit, which it did! I was so glad because I simply had to have this chair as I already had plans for it. Other than some minor surface woodworking and a new seat, this chair didn't need much in the way of restoration.

Once I brought the chair home, it sat throughout the summer as other projects seemed to take priority. Finally, I got to the chair last week and finished it yesterday. I had purchased this gorgeous fabric which was left over from my piano bench project and it was exactly enough to use on this chair. I removed the backing first, and to my surprise, there was yet another fabric underneath the floral design! It was labeled, "red mohair," and I suspect it was original to the chair. Knowing that style of fabric was frequently used in the late Victorian period, I now have a point of origin as to the age of this chair. I suspect it dates back to the late 1890's. This was exciting because it's sometimes difficult, if not impossible, to find out the exact age of a piece of furniture unless you have a marking of some kind. It requires a lot of research in styles to determine the age.

Chair Finished

This chair had "good bones" and proved to be an outstanding piece of furniture after the restoration. I removed the backing, but was able to use the original upholstery tacks. And would you believe it? Many of those tacks were so bent I couldn't use them, but found the identical tacks at an estate sale for 50 cents! These extra tacks came in handy since I ended up bending many of them while recovering the chair's back. I then the seat with a new cushion and used new wood because the original wood was completely cracked and not safe to sit on. I custom-sewed the new seat cushion and professionally "tacked" it in place after using my serger on the edges of the fabric so it will never fray. It needed a "touch up" of dark walnut stain and a spray of semi-gloss polyurethane to bring it to life. This sturdy, old chair got a complete makeover.