Cute Rocking Chair Caning

Rocking Chair After

Rocking Chair Before

This was a very dainty, cute rocking chair that as many before it, had a broken seat.  It’s not uncommon for older caned chairs to become brittle and are easily damaged when a knee happens to land in the center of it or it one sits in it a bit too hard. While a caned chair can last many years, they do require a bit of a gentle touch when used as an everyday chair. Luckily the back of the chair was still in tact, so just the seat needed replacing.

As a smaller chair, this one was perfect for a shorter person as it was close to the ground, so it would be easy to get up from. I loved the curved arms of this chair. They were so smooth and well made. The chair was also very sturdy.

This was a strand caning job, which means that the caning is woven in the six steps used for this method. The first three steps are fairly straightforward, front to back, left to right then front to back once again to cover the first row. 

The next step is the first weave, under step three over step one. You do this until the entire chair is done, then you begin the first diagonal weave starting in the upper right corner and working your way to the back, then picking up and working your way to the front of the chair. The next diagonal weave is opposite the first, starting in the left corner and working your way to the back, then finishing the same way you did for the first weave and working your way to the front. 

Once the diagonal weaves are done, you use a wider strand of caning to bind the edging by pulling through the narrow caning up and over the wider caning until it covers the holes. The very last step is tucking in all the loose strands that pile up on the underside of the chair. This requires pulling the loose strands underneath the tied ends and pulling them tightly before snipping them off. Then the chair is done.

Caning is a dying art. Not many people do this tedious work anymore because it takes time (a commodity for sure) and patience. My first few chair took me over a week to do, but as I progressed, the process became easier and I became more proficient at each step. Tip: you need to really pay attention to the direction of the weave in all steps. If you go in the wrong direction, you usually won’t spot it right away, but it will throw you off and then you’ll have to undo all the wrong caning and redo it or it won’t work right and you’ll see it. Take your time and do it right and it will save you a lot of heartache and headache down the road.

Small Chair Gets Newly Caned Seat

Caned Chair After

 

Caned Chair Before

This was a nicely sized, small antique chair with a broken cane seat. This is a common problem with cane, it breaks easily when someone either puts a knee through it or tries to stand on it (not recommend). 

This chair was a standard strand weave cane, using a medium size cane. To determine what size cane a chair requires, you measure the distance between each hole as well as the size of the holes on the perimeter of the chair’s seat. If you’re unsure what size to get, it’s better to go a size smaller because ultimately it’s easier to work with.

I prefer this type of caning to the spline, or “press in” caning because although it is more time consuming, it is actually easier to do and much more accurate. I also prefer the look of strand caning to spline caning. The process for spline caning is completely different from strand caning, as the caning comes in a sheet anywhere between 16"-24” wide and sold by the foot, so if you are doing a chair that is 13” x 14” you need to get two lengths of caning in the closest size, but allowing an additional two inches on each side to allow enough cane to “press” into the groove on the top edge of the chair.

With the traditional weave as seen in this chair, you start by removing the old cane completely and make sure all the holes are cleaned out. Then you begin the weave by starting from the front center and coming up the back center, passing beneath through each hole, then back up again to the top, repeating this procedure until one side of the chair is completely filled in, then you repeat on the other side. The next step is the horizontal weaving, continuing until the entire chair is covered both vertically and horizontally. The third step is another row of vertical, this one going slightly to the left of the first row. This allows the additional weaving steps to be easier. 

The total process has six steps of weaving then the final step is the final edge which is secured with binding cane which is a bit wider than the cane used on the chair. You come up through each hole then down the same hole, over the binding then securing the it by pulling the working cane through snugly on the underside, then repeating this on each hole until you complete the entire chair.  You secure the corners with a 1” piece of round peg cane that keeps the corners from coming apart. On the underside of the chair will be the loose strands of cane which will be tied beneath the woven strands created through the caning process. This is the last and final step before the chair is complete and ready to use.

My first caning chair was quite the challenge, but after watching many videos and reading material, have since done many caned chairs. Each time it gets a little bit easier, because I understand the weaving process. I’m currently self-learning yet a new type of weave, a rush chair, which is a completely different process from caning, since the entire chair is woven from the corners to the center, ending with a very narrow space to fill in the last strand. Rush is either natural or manufactured, but the process is the same. I’m in the early stages of this, but this evening I finally figured out the direction and how to get it positioned correctly. When I’m done I will hopefully will have four nicely finished rush chairs and a new skill under my belt. I’ll be posing those too, so keep checking back!

Antique 19th Century Caned Chairs

Antique Chair After

 

Antique Chair Before

Here we go with more chairs! This time it was a set of four (4) chairs, all in need of TLC. These chairs dated back to the late 1800’s, so they were 19th century chairs that had seen a lot of use, therefore a lot of wear and tear, literally. 

Originally the chairs had caned seats, but over time they likely broke and someone decided to cover the seat with stamped leather, or rather, a leather-look-alike that seemed more like a heavy paper between layers of very thin leather. Broken and no longer able to seat a person, it was high time to remove the leather “fix” and replace it with the original woven caning. But first, the chairs all needed to be stripped, which for this type of chair is very time-consuming because (you guessed it), spindles. Yup, spindles are what takes a long time to strip because there are many of them and they are rounded, making them inaccessible from one angle, therefore it’s necessary to rotate the chair continuously while stripping. 

A chemical stripper was the best option for these (compared to a heat gun), because it melts away the old, worn finish and reveals the wood beneath. Once all the old finish is removed, the chairs are then cleaned up by using soft rags (usually old t-shirts, which are excellent for this) and wiping away the residue left by the stripper with lacquer thinner or acetone. This is a necessary step prior to sanding or your sandpaper will clog up with the residue, making it difficult to remove. 

Starting with 100 grit sandpaper, the chair is prepared to accept the next grit, 150, until the final sanding, which is done with 220 grit. Once all surfaces are sanded, the chair is wiped with lacquer thinner on a clean cloth, allowed to dry, then it is ready for stain. This entire process (for this type of chair) can take from several hours to a few days. Again, spindles are a lot of work, therefore more tedious and time-consuming than flat surface chairs. Once the stain is applied with either a soft cloth or a brush, or both, you wipe away the excess stain, then enjoy the amazing transformation from raw wood to beautifully restored, refinished wood. 

We used "special walnut" on these chairs. The new stain brought out all that gorgeous woodgrain, which had been hidden by years of oxidation that happens over time. Once the chairs had dried from staining (we allow 24-48 hours), the first coat of polyurethane was applied. For these chairs we used a water-based semi-gloss, durable and easy to clean up after. That first coat protects the stain and prepares the wood for the remaining two coats that finish the chair. It is necessary to lightly sand between each coat of poly with a high grit sandpaper to give it “tooth,” which makes just rough enough to accept the next layer of polyurethane. Once the third coat was applied, the chairs were done and ready for the last and final step, install the new caning. 

These chairs had “press-in” caning, cane that comes in pre-woven sheets and cut to size, then installed and kept in place with spline. It’s necessary to soak the cane and spline for at least an hour (or longer) so that it is pliable enough to work with, otherwise it cracks and breaks. Caning “wedges" are used to “press” the edge of the cane into the pre-cut 1/4” groove in the chair. The chairs had a closely woven cane originally, so we chose the same style to keep it original.

It’s necessary to choose the right size of spline, which is based on the width of the opening, so that it keeps the cane in place while completely filling the groove. If the cane is too loose, it will not keep the cane taut. It’s a tricky process because once you have pressed all the cane into the groove, you glue it slowly, allowing the glue to run into the groove, starting in the back of the chair. Once it is glued, you push the spline into place, tapping it with a hammer as you go. If the spline has been adequately soaked, it will bend easily around curves. If not, it can break, especially if those curves are tight. 

Luckily these chairs’ curves were fairly wide, so it wasn’t too difficult to bend them around the edge. Once you reach the back where you started, make a small pencil mark and cut the spline to match the starting point at an angle and tap it with a hammer in place. After all the spline is installed around the entire seat, hammer the spline so that it is level with the top of the chair. There will be caning strands popping out that were left over from the placement after the spline is installed, so they must be trimmed off. I use a sharp chisel and snap them away by tapping on a hammer close to the spline, which removes the excess. You can also use snippers. This completes the caning process. Allow the cane to dry at least 24-48 hours before you sit on the chair.

Caned Bentwood Rocking Chair

Rocker Before
Seat Broken

 

Rocker After
Seat Repaired

This is one of several rocking chairs I have worked on over the course of my furniture restoration/refinishing jobs that involved caning. This one is almost identical to the Bentwood Rocker I worked on last year, except that this one only needed the seat replaced and was not refinished. I only glued the arms as they were a bit loose, other than that I only repaired the broken seat with new cane.

This was by far my fastest caning job yet. It’s true that the more you do something, the better you get. Caning is a lost art, a true art form that takes time, patience and practice. I found the first few jobs I did I thought “this is impossible!” and didn’t think I would ever enjoy it, but with each job they process became clearer and I found myself really enjoying the caning and learning so much about the work as much as myself. I found that I really enjoy a challenge and mastering it. 

I'm by no means an expert (yet) but I do feel my skill level has increased dramatically with each job I’ve done. Seats are easier than the back as they are smaller and have less distance between the front and back, or left to right as the case may be. Although curved seats are much more challenging, they’re not too bad. The most difficult part of caning is around the arms, since it’s quite congested there and harder to pull the cane through those tight holes. 

It is vital that each and every pre-drilled hole is completely free of the old cane, as this can affect the process of pulling the new cane through them. The best way to do this right is to prepare each chair well and you’ll be in good shape. I personally do not like staining or painting caning as I feel it can damage the natural fibers over time and break them down much faster than letting them age naturally. This chair required a 2.75mm cane, which is considered medium, and a bit thicker and stronger than the 2.0mm I used most recently. It is easier to work on the binding as it pushes through all the previously caned holes with ease. My small needle-nose pliers work well to assist with this and the small awl is a necessary tool to pull the cane through from bottom to top. I’m satisfied with the results and more importantly, so was my customer.

Check out the previous similar Bentwood rocking I caned last year by clicking on this link:

http://finalefurniture.blogspot.com/2019/09/maple-rocking-chair-refinished-with-new.html

Newly Caned Dining Chair

 

Cane Chair Before

    My caning abilities are really being tested these days, but the

Cane Chair After

more caning I do, the easier it becomes and the more enjoyable. I’ve rounded another curve in my progress and have become more than just sufficient, in fact, I'm pretty darn good at it. This exquisite dining chair was likely the last survivor of a six to eight set of predecessors, therefore it deserved special treatment and caning done right. 

    This chair had been caned many years prior and had been broken, likely by a knee or a child that used it as a way to sneak cookies out of grandma’s cupboard. Cane gets brittle after so many years, therefore it is vulnerable to breakage as it ages. My choice to keep the cane original (not stain it) is to add years of service to the chair by allowing it to age naturally.

    This chair was “strand caned,” meaning the cane comes in 6’-8’ lengths, then carefully woven, one strand at a time through pre-drilled holes surrounding the chair’s seat. It’s a labor intensive process, both in removing the old cane as well as weaving the new cane. Cane comes in various widths from very fine 2mm to medium 3mm or larger sizes 4mm and up. It’s important to determine the size of the cane in relationship to the holes, or it becomes very difficult the further you get into the process if the cane is too large since you will be pulling many strands through the same holes over and over due to the nature of the weaving. While the caning process is repetitious, each chair is unique in the way it is woven to accommodate the shape of that particular chair. 

    This chair had a curved seat, wider in the front than in the back, therefore it was necessary to double up the strands in some holes and omit others for that direction. The most difficult part of the chair was near the arms, because the cane moves around them beneath the chair so getting the cane to slide through those holes was tricky. Having the right tools is essential as they make the difference between a mediocre job and an excellent one. Strand caning is done is six parts; front to back, left to right, front to back again, diagonal one direction then diagonal in the opposite direction and finally, binding. When you first begin weaving, you use caning pegs (see photo below) to keep the cane in place. Eventually the cane becomes tight so they are no longer needed. 

    The very last step is the tie off the cut cane beneath the chair by tucking it up under the loops created by the weave then tie them tightly prior to snipping off their ends. It was really a nice looking chair one the new cane was in place.

Caning pegs hold cane in place
during weaving process

Chairs Get New Spline Caning

Spline Cane Before

Spline Cane After

If someone were to ask what our most common refinishing job is, I’d have to answer “Chairs.” The reason is simple. We all use them, so we all have them and at some point in time, they will need to be either refinished, reupholstered, restored or in this case, re-caned. This dining chair was in need of a new spline caned back (only) as the seat covers would remain fabric (to be done at a later date).

This is one of a set of four chairs in need of new back cane. It is a “spline” cane style, which means that the back portion is made of a single sheet of caning then kept in place with a spline that keeps the cane sheet in place. This is the first time I have worked with this particular style of caning, which is known as Swedish woven. The difference between this type of cane and the more commonly seen antique cane is that these are double rows of perpendicular lines that criss-cross compared to “hole” style of cane.

When ordering caning supplies, it is very important to measure the width of the channel to get the right size of spline. If you order spline that is too large, it won’t fit into the channel, which can cause damage during the tapping which is an essential part of the installation. If you order spline that is smaller than the channel, it won’t fit tight enough to keep the cane from coming out, so ordering the proper size is key.

Cleaned out channel

The hardest part of this process is removing the old spline. For these chairs, I used a combination of tools; chisel, needle-nose pliers, wood-carving tools, hammer, and then later (after I ordered it) a spline-removal tool, which is exactly the perfect tool to get beneath the old spline and smack it until it lifts up. I then used a small chisel to loosen any remaining spline that stuck to the inside of the channel.

Note: Cane must be soaked prior to installation. I soaked the cane and

Soaking Cane in Tub

spline (in my bathtub) for over an hour. (My little cat, Sadie is supervising!) Soaking spline and cane together is necessary, so that the spline can be manipulated around the tight corners that bend along the edges of the chair. It is okay to leave the everything soaking while you continue to work on each chair. By the time you get to the last chair, your cane and spline will be pliable enough to work easily. The first one is always the hardest one to work on.

I used Frog tape to protect the chair from accidental scratches while removing the old spline. Once the spline was removed and the channel cleaned out, (see photo at left), it is ready to accept the new cane and spline, which gets tapped into place with hammer and caning wedges. This process is tedious and time consuming and you really must focus on the work, which means no distractions!

The basic dynamic of installation is the same as hole cane, but the challenge of this style is to keep the rows straight vertically as well as horizontally, as they tend to shift while you install the spline. Once you have tapped the cane down enough to accept the spline (keep it in place with caning wedges) you can then carefully apply clear drying glue into the channel, then follow it with the new spline, being conscious of carefully bending and fitting it around those tight corners. (If your chairs have larger curves, it is much easier to install spline).

Of the two ways of cane installation, spline or hand weave, this is the “easier” way to do it, but that doesn’t mean it’s simple. It takes precision, patience and the right tools to do it right.

Antique Parlor Cane Chair Refinished

Cane Chair Before

Cane Chair After

This was a lovely antique parlor chair with a broken seat that needed new caning. A few areas also needed to be regaled and tightened, otherwise the chair was in great shape. I had done a similar chair in size a couple of years ago and knew this one was of the same era, approximately 1870’s,  making it a true antique. It had nice lines and was a great accent chair. Its soft curves made it perfect for a ladies boudoir.

The first step was to remove the old, broken cane then open up and glue the loose joints, leaving them in clamps overnight. Although the customer didn’t require this chair to be refinished, once it had been glued I removed the cane and determined there was so much grime on the chair from handling over the years that I would go ahead and surprise her with a full strip and refinish. There wasn’t much to it so it didn’t take that long and turned out to be all worth it, a perfect canvas for new caning.

I chose early American stain with a semi-gloss polyurethane (two coats). I always allow the poly to dry completely before beginning the long, tedious process of caning. This I do indoors in winter but love to do it outdoors on my deck in the warmer months. Luckily I have a lovely sunroom with three window walls and have plenty of natural light which is necessary to work on any caning job.

The most difficult part of this is keeping my two cats, Chelsea and Sadie from biting into the cane while I pull it through the slots. Cats think that anything longer than 3” is something worth playing with, i.e. batting at it with their paws or grabbing it between their teeth and tugging in the opposite direction that I need it to go. They absolutely love the scrap cut pieces I toss at them while they jump a foot off the ground to paw at it. But no worries. I don’t allow them to actually bite the cane I’m working on as I don’t want it to break halfway through a pull-through. Caning requires to be soaked, so the kitties also enjoy watching that process. I call them my two “Snoopervisors,” an adequate description for their careful observation with large, green eyes not missing a thing.

All in all, it’s a good system and the end result is as great as it is time-consuming. The customer was very happy with the chair and was surprised at the “bonus” refinishing job. This chair was completed on Christmas Day, after gift opening. Why not work on Christmas? It’s not like I had to cook since my daughter did that. It was indeed a relaxing yet productive Christmas!

To see a couple other small caning chairs, click on these links:
https://finalefurniture.blogspot.com/2017/05/caned-parlor-chair.html
https://finalefurniture.blogspot.com/2018/11/antique-parlor-chair.html

Maple Rocking Chair Refinished With New Caning

Rocking Chair Before

This antique rocking chair had seen many years of use, unfortunately had gotten a knee through the seat and broke the original caning. The chair is well over 100 years old and likely a host to many relaxing moments, conversations and stories while gently rocking and listening to the many tales told.

Caning Process With Pegs

The chair had aged, the wood darkened, hiding the beautiful wood grain beneath. Since my customer had wanted the chair refinished as well as replace all the caning.

If you are unfamiliar with the chair caning process, there are two types of cane; "strand" cane and "pressed" cane. This chair had “strand” caning, which means you create the weave by measuring the holes and finding center, then string very long strands of cane back and forth through the holes, first vertically, then horizontally and both ways diagonally. While you are weaving, you keep the cane in place by using “caning pegs,” which fit into the holes, keeping the cane tight as you carefully move across and down the chair. If you’ve done all the steps right, you will have the “holes” as a result of the weave.

Rocking Chair After

Because this chair needed refinishing as well as new cane, it was necessary to snip away all the old caning first. This in itself was a time-consuming process because the original cane had been lacquered over so it was stiff and difficult to snip and remove. Once that was complete, the old cane comes easily through the holes, which vary in size. This chair had 1/4” holes and required size 3 medium cane.

After all caning was removed, I began the tedious process of stripping the old finish and revealing the true beauty of the wood, which was maple. Considering the age of this chair, it was in remarkably beautiful condition with no breaks in the structure. Indeed, it was as sturdy as it was the day it was made.

Once I had removed all the old stain using a variety of tools, including a toothbrush, brass brush and lots of in between sanding, I chose chestnut gel stain and finished it with semi-gloss polyurethane. I allowed the chair to dry for two days prior to caning it. It was a fairly large chair and had ultimately required three bundles (called hanks) of caning. I had originally ordered only two hanks, so I had to wait a few days while the third hank was on its way, catching up on other projects in the meantime.

The caning process for this chair took ten days, five days for the bottom and five days for the upper portion of the chair. I spent an average of four hours per day on caning this chair. It can be a strenuous activity, so taking frequent breaks is essential to avoid lower back pain. While caning isn’t super difficult, it does require patience, time and a skill set similar to weaving a basket. It is intensly  gratifying to see the final product after a few hundred feet of caning has been woven through it. Here’s to another one-hundred years and many more stories to share...

Caned Parlor Chair

Caned Chair Before

Caned Chair After

This little parlor chair had broken cane on the seat, but was otherwise in good condition, albeit a bit scratched up. I had never done caning, but I knew that with a little research, the right tools and a bit of determination I could figure it out, so I began reading about caning and found plenty of videos on YouTube and other "how tos" in various sites on the world wide web.

The concept was simple enough. First step is to remove the spline, then pull out the damaged caning. Once that is removed, you chisel away any remaining glue and debris and clean out the spine groove so that the new spline can be installed. Since the spline comes in various sizes, you need to know what size it is before you purchase new spline, otherwise it may not fit. I didn't realize there were so many sizes!