Hutch Before |
Hutch After |
Hutch Before |
Hutch After |
Waterfall Dresser After |
Waterfall Dresser Before |
Jim was able to minimize the damage of the burn mark on the top with careful sanding. With veneer you can't sand too much or you will completely remove the veneer down to the bare wood. In furniture such as this, it's not an easy fix so better to keep the sanding to a minimum. Jim decided to paint the center curved section of the front top drawer and the backing since originally it had some kind of painted feature which had long since worn away. It looked better than leaving it stained with an uneven, unattractive color. It also matched the new hardware very well. The plastic back section of the original knobs were broken, so out customer had decided to replace them with new hardware.
Our photo on the top left is the "before" version, which shows a bit of the top. Since our customer had to order the hardware and it took a few weeks to get it, we were unable to get an "after" photo of this dresser, so the one you see on the right was supplied by the customer. However, they posted the refinished dresser along with the mirror on our Facebook page, so here it is. It looks pretty good!
Dresser with Mirror |
Cedar Chest After |
Cedar Chest Before |
The wood top had been completely unusable. It was covered with the glue that had been holding the foam in place and the fabric was attached with large tacks. Evidently whoever had done this wanted to cover the top and make it an effective seating area, which is not a bad way to go if you don't have the resources to refinish and restore the piece of furniture. After discussion the possibilities with the customers, they decided to replace the veneer with new veneer (good choice) and it looked great. Jim ordered a walnut veneer that had a self-stick feature which is a great way to go since you do not require adhesive to attach it.
Of course the entire cedar chest had to be stripped, sanded and refinished. Once that was done and the new veneer had been installed, he stained the entire cedar chest with English Chestnut stain (this year's most popular stain!) It turned out terrific. The new walnut veneer was the cherry on top of this hope chest which is once again a lovely, usable and beautifully finished piece of furniture.
Old Cedar Chest Top (before new veneer) |
Chair After |
Chair Before |
Luckily the wood needed only a little bit of cleaning and touch-up, but nothing else. It was in really great condition. When you take care of your furniture, it shows. It also shows if furniture has not been taken care, of or had been badly used or abused. Each piece tells its own story.
For these chairs I had to invest in a new, long-nose pneumatic stapler because the backrest area of the chairs' top and bottom areas were hard to reach with my regular stapler. The long nose stapler is something I had been wanting to purchase sooner or later because there have been times recently where having one would have been pretty handy. I also found out the the staples are a completely different type that I had been using. Once I got all the stapler/staples issues figured out, I could proceed with my project of working on these four chairs.
Upon first seeing these chairs, I was unaware how to remove the back as there were no visible screws, nails or other fasteners. Once I removed the seat, it was a matter of using a flat screwdriver and loosening the bottom and hammering it upward to "lift" the back right out and pull if away from the groove at the top that it was pushed into. Once the backrest was out, I had to remove all those staples. One aspect of furniture restoration and refinishing that is time-consuming and painful is removing the original staples. After a while my right shoulder gets pretty sore, so I try not to do them all at once.
Installing the new fabric was not too difficult as I wrapped it around the backrest and stapled the inside edge so that the staples couldn't been seen. The top and bottom were a bit trickier because of the way it had to be lifted up and into, then hammered back into its original groove at the top. It was essential to line it up perfectly and hammer it in without breaking or splitting the wood. I decided to work on one chair at a time, completing the backrest first and then the seats. Each seat received new foam because the old foam was very worn out and not supportive at all. I also topped off the seat with a bit of quilt batting.
Because of the pattern, I wanted to make sure it lined up at the back of the seat and the bottom of the backing so it looked like a continuous line of material. I accomplished this by putting the seat in position once the backrest was installed then actually installing a couple of screws from the seat's underside to make sure the seat would end up where it was supposed to. Once that was secured, I placed the fabric on the cushion and lined it up with the backrest.
I tacked the sides so that the fabric would stay in the right position, then proceeded to attach the seat fabric. It worked beautifully. After the material was secured, I finalized attaching it to the seats and finished off the seats' underside with chambray, the black fabric used as a dust cover in most chairs. For these type of chairs it serves as a finished look. The new fabric is very nice and updated as well as durable. I recommended my customer use Scotchguard to protect it from potential stains and she agreed.
Dresser After |
Dresser Before |
Jim made a brand new top using sassafras wood, which has a similar wood grain as oak, which matched perfectly with this dresser. He opted to paint it using chalk paint and treated with wax, which protects the finish and makes it easy to clean. He chose a lovely brushed brass for the drawer pulls which looks stunning with the new color.
This dresser has four large drawers and two smaller ones at the top. Each drawer bottom has been replaced since many were either missing or not operative any longer. The drawers were constructed with dovetail joints, so it was made well as new, but as the years pass by, it got its fair share of use and likely, neglect over time. What you see in the "before" photo it the way it looked when we got it home. The "after" photo is what it looked like once it was complete.
This dresser is also for sale, asking $375.00. It is solid wood and will make a nice addition to your bedroom.
Dresser After Painting with new top |
Dresser Before Painting and worn out top |
This dresser had a durable structure, except for the top, which was in rough shape, so Jim made a brand new top and stained it with English Chestnut stain, which complements the blue chalk paint.
The new hexagon shaped drawer pulls are nickel, which work well with the blue color.
This dresser is for sale, asking $375.00. The measurements are 40" wide x 18-1/4" deep x 33-1/2" tall. Please contact me if you are interested in purchasing this dresser.
Dresser After Painting FOR SALE! |
Dresser Before |
First it was stripped, sanded and then painted in a lovely dark shade called "In The Navy." Jim chose to paint this dresser with chalk paint, which requires a finishing treatment of waxing upon completion of painting. The was protects the paint and makes it strong and durable and easy to take care of as it provides a hard finish to the paint, protecting the wood. We've used wax paint on several projects and they always look terrific.
The original hardware was brass, so he cleaned and polished it, making it pop on the newly painted color. The interior drawers were stained and the bottom compartments behind the doors was painted in a light color. Although its primary function was a dresser, this lovely renovated piece of furniture can also be used as a buffet since it has plenty of storage for silverware and plates below and behind the doors. If you wanted a coffee bar, it could be used for that as well. And of course, its original use as a dresser will still suffice.
This piece is currently for sale. Asking price is $425.00, so please get it touch with us if you are interested!
Chair After |
Chair Before |
The original seat and back were black vinyl, with upholstery tacks surrounding the seat area and sides of the top. The seats were torn and the foam was destroyed. Time to renew.
There was a lovely medallion carving in the center of the back, which was almost invisible prior to refinishing. Made of solid (and I mean SOLID) oak, these chairs must have weighed 40 lbs. each. This made the refinishing and reupholstery project tough, because of how many times needed to move the chairs to complete the work.
To save time, Jim removed the black vinyl and got to work. He opted to take them apart so he could access the areas that needed to be re-glued and repaired and that's the best and proper way to do it. Apart, he sanded the pieces down to bare wood then stained them with English Chestnut stain. Once the new stain was applied, the chairs were put together and "brought back to life." The final step was sprayed the polyurethane, and wow! The chairs were beautiful and that beautiful flower medallion just popped!
Once he was done working his magic, it was time for me to work mine. The chairs needed new fabric. My customer and I agreed gray would be a nice color. The old padding was not usable, so each chair got new foam and batting on the seats. As I stated before, these chairs were HEAVY! Since adding material requires a lot of moving the chair around, it was necessary to lift them up to put on my work table then down again on the floor for stapling and then up on the table again to continue other parts. You get the picture.
The curved back portion of the chair was trickier than it first looked, because each chair needed a template which I had to create from the chair's measurements instead of using the old material, since it was so distorted and badly damaged it was unusable. Upholstery has many challenges, one being sometimes you simply do not know what is involved until you get into it. Such was the case with the backs. Once I figured out that part, measuring the material properly was crucial, because if the measurement was incorrect, it wouldn't fit.
I created templates out of card stock, which gave me the precise size of each fabric section. I had to line up the top edges of the curved portion of the top prior to stitching, so that once it was pulled into position, it would fit snugly to the bottom edge before I could attach the underside with staples. This required a lot of lifting, turning, more lifting, more turning, etc. Good body mechanics is essential when doing this heavy lifting.
The last step in the process was adding the double welt cord around the seat to finish it off with a polished, professional look. I used hot glue on the double welt cord, as it is the most effective way to attach welt cord, but I also like to reinforce welt cord with tiny nails to make sure it doesn't move over time. Needless to say I was extremely happy to finish these heavy, but lovely, tavern chairs.
Dining Table After |
Dining Table Before |
At some point wheels had been added, but they were metal and rusting, so Jim replaced them with new rubber wheels. Traditionally, wheels aren't recommended for dining tables, but sometimes they are useful when the person plans on moving the table's location.
The color had been faded, showing its wear. Our customer chose a lovely stain color, English Chestnut, which worked quite well for the table as well as the chairs it came with. He used satin polyurethane to give the surface a durable finish and it looked great once it was done.
The chairs and table were not an original set, but once they were finished, the wood actually matched very well. The chairs will appear in a separate blog post titled, "Tavern Chairs' Revival."
Rocking Chair After |
Rocking Chair Before |
Needless to say, it was pretty nasty. The springs needed to be re-tied, but were in decent shape, meaning they were not rusted. It's an old chair, I estimate at least 150-175 years old based on the construction and the materials used as well as the design and wood, which was solid mahogany.
I removed the seat and the straw and horsehair, which was quite the job. It was pretty nasty, filled with dirt and who knows what else. Then I worked on the springs, removing all the old ties and webbing that barely held those springs in place. The previous upholsterer used only nails to secure the spring ties so it took several hours to remove all the nails that were imbedded into the chair's seat. After everything was removed, I gave it a thorough cleaning so Jim could work on refreshing the stain. First he gave it a good cleaning and the water was black.
All those years of grime showed up in the water. Once it was cleaned and he touched up the stain, the chair looked really good, its natural beauty coming through. There was no damage on any part of this chair, all details were still in tact including the hard-carving on the back panel. The front arm detail was carved into the curve and the feet were ball and claw, a traditional detail commonly used in the nineteenth century.
Once the chair was cleaned up, secured new webbing to the underside of the chair and I attached the springs securely with waxed thread to the webbing. Then I re-tied the springs using the eight-way tie method which is the proper way to tied springs for upholstery. Next step was attaching the burlap over the springs to hold them securely in place. A layer of Dacron was positioned over the burlap, building up the "crown" of the seat. Two layers of raw cotton were the next step before the final step of the 1" foam which made a nice crown and gave this chair a soft, comfortable sitting area. The original chair was very flat, without much stuffing, therefore it was hard and not very comfortable. With the new padding, it was quite soft and easy to sit on.
The final feature was a leather panel which was sewn by using four 13" section, stitched together in the center then I added an accent top stitch on each side of the seams for a decorative finish. The bronze tacks created a nice contrast to finish off the chair. This was not one of my easier projects, but definitely one of the most rewarding finished products.
Desk After |
Desk Before |
The top was a bit worn as it had been used for many years. But overall, this desk/table served a great purpose for the owner's business use. In front is a drawer which is difficult to see in the photographs, but it was a nice feature of this lovely piece of furniture.
Jim stripped it down to bare wood and sanded it carefully, maintaining the original details at the bottom edge. It had a sturdy base with two sidebar supports which made this desk a very stable piece of furniture. He chose dark walnut stain and satin polyurethane for protection. This makes a great family heirloom and can be used for many more years to come, serving the future generations well.
Table Before |
Table top after |
We believe the origin of this table is from Naples, Italy in a "Sorrento" style. This type of inlaid wood is known for its inlay wood tradition originating from Naples, dating as far back as the 15th century. This unique, high specialized craft of art of inlay is made by inserting different materials into wood. This technique creates highly intricate designs and the process requires precision, patience and determination as well as attention to detail. Sorrento is the hub of the Italian inlay furniture and is known for its exquisite craftsmanship with woodworking. Some of these tables can cost upwards from $2,500 to $11,000, depending on design and size.
Once Jim had the table sanded, he used a natural stain since it didn't require a color change. The beautiful original colors of the surface are the true star of this show making it a true work of art.