Antique Chair Revival

Chair After

Chair Before

This chair was a challenge. Not only because there was a lot of fabric to replace, the chair was also very heavy. My estimate for this chair was that it was made in the late 1920's to early 1930's, based on the original material of which I found a small scrap on either side of the arm padding. The wood was cherry.

Once I removed all the sections of the chair, (you start on the back, which is the last section added to a chair) I removed the seat stuffing, which consisted of horse hair and straw. This is another clue as to the age of this chair. Prior to modern-day foam and fiber fill, upholsterers used horse hair and straw for the seat. Once I removed the nasty chair stuffing, it exposed the springs. The seat springs were in pretty good shape, but needed some overall tightening and re-tying, but not a complete eight-way tie. The back of the chair also had springs, which were in good condition. 

The chair had the original webbing on the underside, but the most recent upholsterer attached new webbing to the bottom to strengthen the integrity of the springs without removing the springs. I usually remove the chair's springs and replace the webbing when necessary, but this chair was in good enough shape with the original springs, thus needed a bit of extra tying. Once the springs were secured, I covered them with premium muslin instead of burlap. This allowed me to really pull and tighten the springs to keep them in place for the next step, which is adding the padding. Since this particular chair had a bit of wood showing, I touched up the wood with matching stain and used satin polyurethane to protect it. This is done prior to adding material.

The first layer of padding was a section of raw cotton, which comes on a large roll and can be pulled apart and placed directly on the chair's seat. The next layer was a 1" section of premium foam, then another layer of raw cotton. All these seat toppers were finished with another section of muslin which holds everything together and gives the chair its "crown," where it is higher in the middle section. The springs were held tightly and the bounce was perfect.

Fabric was next. My customer chose a lovely Kelly Ripa Home fabric with a nice design. After careful measuring, I covered the seat first with the material. Once I was satisfied with the seat, I chose to do the arms next. I stapled foam to the top of the arms and Dacron to the sides. This formed a nice cushion to support the arms without a lot of bulk. Using the chair's arms for measurement, I cut the right amount of material to each arm, attaching it from the back side to the front of the arm then pulling it back before attaching it to the back of the chair. I chose to do the arms prior to doing the interior back so that I had easy access to it. 

The back proved challenging because this chair was fairly large, so a generous section of fabric was required to cover it. I wrapped the fabric around to the back of the chair, curving at the top edges instead of the original style which was made with side inserts and welting. Each upholsterer does things a little differently. Once the fabric was firmly in place, the buttons were next. I made each button using a button kit that covers the metal button fixtures with the same fabric as the rest of the item. 

The buttons are pulled through the thick front to the back using extra long needles, then tied off in the back of the chair through the webbing. This is a tricky procedure because you are going through about 6"-8" of material and padding to reach the back. I use a strong waxed thread for added strength. I chose to put the buttons in a different configuration than the original (personal choice) which I felt matched the design of the chair better.  

After the buttons were in place, I stapled and nailed "curve ease" to the back edge of the chair so that I could attach the fabric, then it gets hammered it in place to cover the hardware that attaches it. I glued double welting to the arm fronts for clean finish. Once the entire chair was done, I stapled chambray to the underside. This is a "dust cover" to protect the chair from dirt and debris that can enter from the underside of the seat. It's a good way to finish off a chair. I love the way it turned out and boy, was it comfortable!

1940’s Chair New Upholstery

 

1940s Chair Before

1940s Chair After

This was a super challenging reupholstery project. This chair was purchased by my customer’s grandmother in the 1940s. The story was that her grandmother had saved her money so she could purchase this heart-shaped back chair. I’m sure at the time she bought it, it was in much better condition than when I received it. Made of green satin, the chair was made with tufting, buttons and formed to accentuate the heart shape, which is part of the chair’s wood structure. 

Because the original fabric was much thinner than the upgraded fabric, it had a skirting along the bottom edge which surrounded the chair. Popular for the time, this skirting was a definitive feminine design for a small chair such as this which was commonly found in a woman’s dressing room. The chair’s petite size is an attractive feature because it was small enough to put into a corner of a bedroom or dressing room. The heart-shaped top was surrounded by shirred fabric to match the arms. Piping in an off-white was the accent color for the green. However, the chair had seen better days and had spent many years neglected,  suffering the elements and its share of rodent damage as well as other crawly things that made the interior their home. To say the least, it needed a major overhaul.

Back of chair after

Back of chair before

My customer had her heart set on a nautical theme and chose a lovely fabric with light blue, gray, white and navy with various nautical elements including sea shells, lighthouse, seagulls and a compass. The colors were muted but worked well with the overall design and theme of the fabric. 

I spent four evenings removing the old fabric, including the old thread and taking the sections apart, measuring and marking them, so that I could replicate them in the new design. However ambitious this was, it didn’t turn out that way. As I reconstructed the new underlayment of the chair, i.e. webbing, burlap, foam, rolled raw cotton batting, etc. the dictation that I take it into a different direction. I had always planned on adding the skirting, but the more I worked on the fabric, the less I wanted the skirting. It just didn’t look right with the new design of the chair.

Because the chair had zig-zag springs, it required a strong foundation so that you wouldn't feel the springs when you sat on the chair. And because the upholstery fabric was considerably thicker than the original satin, creating the “loose cushion” style was not possible. I was able to maintain integrity of the chair’s original “heart” design in the back by following the form of of the wood and being conscientious about keeping that shape while adding the various layers of cotton batting and foam. 

The most difficult part of the top heart shaped area was adding the fabric covered buttons. Because I made the back as a single, attached unit, the buttons has to be pulled through all those layers and stitched individually into place before the back fabric could be applied. This proved to be quite a task which involved using various tools of the trade. (I have learned to keep bandaids on hand while doing this type of work!)

Because of the shaping of the new fabric, I could only add piping to the very back of the chair, but I used two rows for character and keeping the back area straight, so I could easily apply the back fabric by using tack strip. Tack strip (or curve ease) attaches the back fabric in a way that you can’t see any fasteners. It’s got sharp “teeth” that grab the fabric’s edge, then gets hammered down to close the fabric on itself. 

Because the chair’s arms were built with fairly thin wood strips, it was a bit tricky attaching the batting layers and eventually the fabric because it was difficult to find where the wood was. This was quite time-consuming, but turned out great. Plus with all the padding, the chair is much more comfortable than it was before since the seating is much thicker than it was originally made. I finished the chair by making arm covers (to protect from your skin’s natural oil) and made a matching pillow with ruffled edges. I refinished the chair’s legs, because I opted to omit the original skirting, which simply didn’t look good with the updated fabric and style of the chair. The legs weren’t in bad shape, but they needed a touch-up so this completed the chair. Now it’s ready to face another 70 years as a cute little chair that graces a woman’s dressing room.

Sofa Gets Six New Box Cushions

Updated, New Foam w/Tweed Fabric

Outdated Fabric,
Saggy Cushion

If you’ve lived through the 1970’s, you’ll likely have owned or knew someone who owned a sofa with fabric that looked similar to the one on the left. I refer to this as “Brady Bunch” fabric, the popular rust, tan and brown used on the show along with bright orange, green and yellow tones. My parents had a similar style sofa and chair in their living room, but with more green and a smaller plaid than this one. Since the 1970’s, fabrics have changed and we have so many more options in the twenty-first century than we did in the 1970’s. The sofa had a total of six cushions, three seat and three accompanying back cushions.

The original covers had a center seam style with a single row of piping which surrounded the top and bottom seat, along with a rear metal zipper. Modern box cushions are constructed with a top, a bottom and a center “boxing” which includes a zipper placket. The best technique to make these box cushions is to measure the size of the foam and allow at least 5/8” seam allowance for each side. These cushions needed new foam which was 6”, so it was necessary to allow a 7-1/2” zipper placket and a 6-1/2” surround, which is sewn to the completed placket. If all seams are sewn properly and accurately, both fabric sections should line up for a nice, even continuous side boxing. 

For these cushions, it was easier to make the top and bottom portions, adding the piping to each one, then stitching the zipper placket in place using clips, which are easy to move when you’re fitting the placket to the top and bottom fabric. A piping foot is an essential tool for this project. Piping (also known as welting or cording) is comprised of a tightly wrapped polyester cord commonly used in upholstery projects as an insert, for a customized, decorative edge. In apparel, it can be used as a décor item or trim. Piping comes in various thicknesses for different applications. 

These were six loose cushions used on a wood-framed sofa. The foam itself had severely deteriorated (as 50 year old foam will) and was crumbling inside the fabric, leaving a fine, yellow powdery residue. Surprisingly the fabric was not torn or damaged, but was very loose and saggy, due to the cushion no longer holding its shape as a result of shrunken, deteriorated foam. Therefore six new foam cushions was a must, as well as new fabric. If you’re going to invest in new fabric, it’s recommended to get new foam to get the maximum comfort and longest wear. However, if your cushions are still in good shape, they can be used with new fabric. All new foam is then wrapped in Dacron for a nice crown and better shaping.

The customer chose a lovely gray tweed interspersed with off white, nicely woven into the gray. The color combination was great and the fabric was easy to work with, despite it being relatively heavy upholstery material. The stitches were practically invisible (always a bonus) therefore the cushions came together beautifully. They should last many years and provide comfort and support to all who sit on them. 

Danish Chair

Danish Chair Before

Danish Chair After

I love taking on projects that involved such a lovely piece of furniture as this Danish cherry chair. The chair was extremely well made, thus also quite heavy, but after removing the cushion, I realized the weight wasn't in the wood, but in the cushion. Once that was removed, the chair itself was fairly light and easy to handle.

On the back of the chair was a stain, as if someone had spilled a darker stain on top of it and it made its way down the rear left leg. Someone tried to cover up the damage by adding glaze over the legs, which