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| Chair After |
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| Chair Before |
This was probably the fastest completion of a chair job I’ve ever done so far in my 14 years of reupholstering. The original fabric was actually in amazing condition, but my customer just wanted to update it to a more modern, contemporary look and chose a lovely beige fabric with a postage stamp design.
This is the first chair I’ve done that had two different boxings. It also had three levels of welting; top edge of seat cushion, beneath the first boxing and at the bottom edge. The back of the chair had an inner and outer back, two separate sections.
I began this project by removing the inner back first, then the cotton filling, cardboard backing for support and the outer back of the chair. As with most upholstery projects, this one had a lot of staples. Once the staples and fabric was removed, I starting removing the seat area and all its components. I used the original fabric to create templates for the new fabric. This was the most accurate way to get the proper dimensions and measurements, which made the assembly a lot easier.
Surprisingly, the single welting I sewed to the seat went around the tight curves pretty easily. The trick on sewing single welting in place is to pivot at the 90 degree corners and snip the fabric to ease it in place. This worked great! After the single welting was firmly in place, I stitched the upper boxing very close to the seat welting. The seat was then ready to attach to the chair. Once I had the seat all lined up, I stapled it in place and used hot glue to attach the welting to the arms and leg sections. (It’s important to NOT touch the tip of the hot glue gun because it will burn you on contact. I can’t stress this enough. One split nano-second can scorch your fingers!)
After measuring the circumference of the chair, I cut the fabric and sewed the single welting to the second boxing level. I attached the boxing to the chair with a cardboard strip, which got stapled to the underside of the material, then folded it into place and stapled it at the lower edge. The very bottom of the boxing was held in place with heavy duty upholstery tacks on strips. They get attached to the underside of the fabric, then nailed in place right into the body of the chair. This keeps the fabric securely in place and gives a clean, finished look for the chair. The bottom edge was stapled and covered with double welting. That edge was then complete.
I attached the upper back of the chair the reverse of how I removed it. I stapled the outer back in place, allowing for the curve back style of the chair, followed by a curved cardboard to keep it stiff and securely in place then laid a thick layer of raw cotton over the cardboard. Finally I settled the new fabric in place and stapled the edges so that it touched the inset wooden channel of the chair. This area was finished off with double welting, which I hot glued into place. Hot glue is invaluable for this process as it really keeps the welting in place on the fabric.
Combining my sewing and design skills, I was able to tear this chair apart and put it back together with new fabric from the templates I created in only four days. This was indeed a record for me! But I was quite motivated since the next day I’d be in the hospital for surgery and wanted to complete this job before that happened. That way my customer didn’t have to wait until my recovery to get her chair and I could have a clean slate before my surgery. All in all, a productive few days.
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| Side by side |
