Old Mahogany Desk

Old Mahogany Desk Before

Old Mahogany Desk After

Antiques are simply the best furniture to refinish and restore
because they are well made, have plenty of character and solid wood. This old mahogany desk is a great example of those characteristics as it was in supreme condition with everything still intact, no broken pieces. This is uncommon for such an old piece of furniture, estimated to be built around the early 1900’s based on the design and materials used. As with many antiques, this one had also seen some wear and a refreshing would bring back its original beauty.

The amount of detail on this desk was incredible. It had a wooden beaded border which surrounded the bottom edge, and again on the top portion of the legs. The drawer, which had no handles, did not stand out. In fact, unless you realized it was a drawer, it was easy to overlook. The fluted legs, carved rosettes and rippled crosspieces show elements of the time and craftsmanship that went into the process of building this old desk. Made of mahogany, it was also a sturdy and somewhat heavy piece of furniture.

The same elements that make an item of furniture beautiful such as all those details, also make it quite challenging to refinish and restore. We utilize many hand tools to remove the old finishes that accumulate between the details of each finely carved piece of wood that creates the unique design of an item of furniture, differentiating it from mass-produced pieces. This desk took several days to strip, sand and remove the residue of old finishes.

Staining was also a tedious process because there were many nooks and crannies that needed careful application of stain, as not to be missed. I chose chestnut gel stain which worked well on the vertical surfaces. Gel stain is great because it doesn’t drip onto everything beneath it and you have more control to where the stain ends up. I chose to spray two coats of semi-gloss polyurethane instead of brushing because of the many vertical surfaces. Spraying mush be carefully applied to avoid runs and drips, but is ultimately much faster than using a brush. The end result was a beautifully refinished antique, which once again glowed with its inherent character.

Maple Rocking Chair Refinished With New Caning

Rocking Chair Before

This antique rocking chair had seen many years of use, unfortunately had gotten a knee through the seat and broke the original caning. The chair is well over 100 years old and likely a host to many relaxing moments, conversations and stories while gently rocking and listening to the many tales told.

Caning Process With Pegs

The chair had aged, the wood darkened, hiding the beautiful wood grain beneath. Since my customer had wanted the chair refinished as well as replace all the caning.

If you are unfamiliar with the chair caning process, there are two types of cane; "strand" cane and "pressed" cane. This chair had “strand” caning, which means you create the weave by measuring the holes and finding center, then string very long strands of cane back and forth through the holes, first vertically, then horizontally and both ways diagonally. While you are weaving, you keep the cane in place by using “caning pegs,” which fit into the holes, keeping the cane tight as you carefully move across and down the chair. If you’ve done all the steps right, you will have the “holes” as a result of the weave.

Rocking Chair After

Because this chair needed refinishing as well as new cane, it was necessary to snip away all the old caning first. This in itself was a time-consuming process because the original cane had been lacquered over so it was stiff and difficult to snip and remove. Once that was complete, the old cane comes easily through the holes, which vary in size. This chair had 1/4” holes and required size 3 medium cane.

After all caning was removed, I began the tedious process of stripping the old finish and revealing the true beauty of the wood, which was maple. Considering the age of this chair, it was in remarkably beautiful condition with no breaks in the structure. Indeed, it was as sturdy as it was the day it was made.

Once I had removed all the old stain using a variety of tools, including a toothbrush, brass brush and lots of in between sanding, I chose chestnut gel stain and finished it with semi-gloss polyurethane. I allowed the chair to dry for two days prior to caning it. It was a fairly large chair and had ultimately required three bundles (called hanks) of caning. I had originally ordered only two hanks, so I had to wait a few days while the third hank was on its way, catching up on other projects in the meantime.

The caning process for this chair took ten days, five days for the bottom and five days for the upper portion of the chair. I spent an average of four hours per day on caning this chair. It can be a strenuous activity, so taking frequent breaks is essential to avoid lower back pain. While caning isn’t super difficult, it does require patience, time and a skill set similar to weaving a basket. It is intensly  gratifying to see the final product after a few hundred feet of caning has been woven through it. Here’s to another one-hundred years and many more stories to share...

Tiger Oak Chair Refinished

Tiger Oak Chair Refinished

Tiger Oak Chair Before

This very old chair was one of the most unusual chairs I had ever refinished. I nicknamed it “The Bulky Chair,” because it has very manly characteristics, with wide armrests and a sturdy frame. The original caning was still intact, so I left it alone. Hidden under man-years of oxidation which causes the finish to darken, was a beautiful tiger oak finish, waiting to be visible.

I began by painstakingly removing the old stain and varnish (always a messy job) which took almost a week with a few hours per day dedicated strictly to this chair among other ongoing projects. The right armrest had a large ring stain on it which took a lot of patient sanding to remove as the stain had penetrated into the fibers of the wood.

It looked like a black paint can had been left there and had soaked into the armrest, thus leaving a dark ring which would not come off after stripping alone. After tedious sanding, starting with 80 grit and working up to 220 grit, I was able to remove the unsightly ring. I simply couldn’t leave it there, as it would have been visible even after the new stain was applied. It’s always best to remove marks that have been left whenever possible because it makes for a much cleaner finish. The hard work paid off!

The nature of chairs, with various sizes and surfaces, generally require a lot of hand sanding, especially when there are spindles. Because of the spiral legs on this chair, I used sandpaper exclusively, since curves such as these could not be sanded with a power sander. As you could imagine, this took a great deal of time.

I chose chestnut gel stain, which proved to be a great choice as it brought out the gorgeous tones of the wood. I let it dry for a day, then finished it off with two coats of satin polyurethane, waiting a day between each coat. So after about ten days, the chair was completely refinished.

Made of a unique style of tiger oak, this chair was a great candidate for refinishing. The seat was easily removable and made of black leather, adding to the “manly” style and size of the chair’s design. I believe this is a one-of-a-kind chair, much like the German Rocking Chair I had refinished many years ago. You can read about that chair by clicking on this link: https://finalefurniture.blogspot.com/2012/06/antique-secretary-desk-german-rocking.html

Drop Leaf Table Painted

Drop Leaf Table Before

Drop Leaf Table After

Every so often we get a unique job such as this drop leaf table. It was small, pretty and in need of a new look. The request was to paint the legs a soft white and paint the top black. This was a dramatic change for the white, yet worn table.

The unique feature of this table was that the center spindles opened up to support the leaves when the table was opened. This made the table easy to store as it was only ten inches wide when the leaves were down. Then when needed, easily opened to accommodate a few chairs and have tea time in ten minutes. I realized after I had begun working on this little gem that one of the bottom sections of a spindle was broken, held together with tape and painted over.

In order to repair the break and do it right, I removed the top from the legs along with all the hinges. This way I was able to reach the hard to get to places to properly prep the table for painting. It required a bit of stripping, a lot of sanding and three coats of spray paint on the legs and three coats of brush on paint for the top. I also cleaned the hinges and screws on my polishing wheel. I believe if you are going to take a piece of furniture apart, cleaning the hardware is part of the restoration process. It looks so much better than using the rusty hinges (or other hardware) and makes it easier to install.

TIP: A trick I’ve learned is after removing the rust from the screws, I scrape each screw along the edge of a bar of soap. This little extra step makes the screws easier to re-install as the soap acts as a lubricant without damaging the wood or the metal. To do a restoration right, it’s well worth the many steps involved since the results will be obvious and appreciated.

Drop Leaf Table Finished and Open