1940s Bedroom Refinishing Project

Low Dresser After

Low Dresser Before

This was one of several pieces of a 1940s vintage bedroom set which Jim recently refinished. It had seen some wear because it had been used for a few generations and needed some revitalizing and love. 

We were excited to take on this project which had two dressers as seen in this post. This bedroom set also had a mirror, bed with headboard and footboard and side rails (not pictured). It’s difficult to get photos of the items when they are delivered in sections. This furniture was in pretty good condition, had great bones, but the exterior had seen some wear and scratching, not uncommon for a vintage bedroom set. Luckily there was no structural or water damage which can be harder to rectify. 

Jim had blended two different stains to obtain a unique color that best suited the furniture. It turned out to be a perfect color for the dressers, resulting in a rich tone which best shows the woodgrain which was hidden prior to the refinishing. That’s one of the many perks of working with stains; custom blending which results in a unique color. It’s quite noticeable in the tall dresser (below) what a variation in color can be in the “before” photo. When furniture is made in a factory, the staining process is quite different from refinishing by hand. They use a spray stain that has a different look, more opaque so the woodgrain is not as visible as it is once it is stripped and refinished. One of the benefits of the hand stripping/refinishing process is that it exposes the natural beauty of the wood.

The scratches on the tops of the dressers were superficial, so they were easily sanded down once the dressers were stripped. Dressers require a great deal of work because each drawer is an individual section that requires removal of hardware and is treated one at a time while stripping, sanding and staining before finishing with polyurethane to protect the finishes. The low dresser (as seen in photos above) had six drawers with general depths. These older dresser have much more space than their newer counterparts and are made very well, so they are usually worth refinishing. It truly is an investment worth doing to preserve a piece of your family’s history.

Tall Dresser After

Tall Dresser Before

The taller dresser (shown left) had four large drawers and two smaller ones at the top. The oval hardware was original in the Federal style. Some customers prefer the original hardware and others like to give their furniture an updated look and replace it, but either way, refinishing a bedroom set is always worth doing because you already have made the investment in the furniture, so why not keep it for generations to come? It’s a wonderful way to honor your family’s history. 

Antique Solid Cedar Chest Refinished

Cedar Chest After

Cedar Chest Before

This is one of many cedar chests we have refinished, but it is the third one that was solid cedar; it had no veneer on the exterior. It was in pretty good condition with just a few minor scratches on the top left side in the back. Because it was solid cedar, those scratches were easily sanded away, bringing out the natural beauty and scent of the wood. 

My customer had used it as a coffee table with a glass top, so it will be protected and serve a dual purpose for many years. Cedar chests are one of my favorite furniture items because they are so versatile. In addition to storing linens, they make great toy boxes, a place to hide Christmas presents from snooping children and a great place to store seasonal clothing because of their natural moth repelling fragrant interiors. There’s nothing quite like the smell of a cedar chest. The cedar tree is one of many nature’s beautiful contributions to a family’s needs in the form of storage, seating and beauty. 

In addition to their versatile properties, cedar chests come in various shapes, sizes and styles. The waterfall cedar chest is very common with its curved front top and heavy lid. Many of these cedar chests were built in the 1940’s, used for linens and towels. Some cedar chests have legs with drawers, in addition to the lid-top storage interior. My personal cedar chest has a built-in shelf that is a perfect place to keep smaller items like my husband’s ties, socks and table runners. I love it for storing my quilts and extra sheets. If you don’t have a cedar chest, you may find one at an estate sale or at an antique store. If they need to be restored, you may get it for under $100.00. The best deal I got on my first cedar chest which was a 1945 waterfall style, was $5.00 at an estate sale. I doubt I’ll ever find one that cheap again!

You can see the other cedar chests we’ve refinished by clicking on these links:

https://finalefurniture.blogspot.com/2019/11/solid-cedar-chest.html
https://finalefurniture.blogspot.com/2016/08/1948-lane-cedar-chest_22.html
https://finalefurniture.blogspot.com/2015/04/elegant-cedar-chest-revival.html
https://finalefurniture.blogspot.com/2013/12/1945-lane-waterfall-cedar-chest.html
https://finalefurniture.blogspot.com/2012/06/my-waterfall-cedar-chest.html

Small Chair Gets Newly Caned Seat

Caned Chair After

 

Caned Chair Before

This was a nicely sized, small antique chair with a broken cane seat. This is a common problem with cane, it breaks easily when someone either puts a knee through it or tries to stand on it (not recommend). 

This chair was a standard strand weave cane, using a medium size cane. To determine what size cane a chair requires, you measure the distance between each hole as well as the size of the holes on the perimeter of the chair’s seat. If you’re unsure what size to get, it’s better to go a size smaller because ultimately it’s easier to work with.

I prefer this type of caning to the spline, or “press in” caning because although it is more time consuming, it is actually easier to do and much more accurate. I also prefer the look of strand caning to spline caning. The process for spline caning is completely different from strand caning, as the caning comes in a sheet anywhere between 16"-24” wide and sold by the foot, so if you are doing a chair that is 13” x 14” you need to get two lengths of caning in the closest size, but allowing an additional two inches on each side to allow enough cane to “press” into the groove on the top edge of the chair.

With the traditional weave as seen in this chair, you start by removing the old cane completely and make sure all the holes are cleaned out. Then you begin the weave by starting from the front center and coming up the back center, passing beneath through each hole, then back up again to the top, repeating this procedure until one side of the chair is completely filled in, then you repeat on the other side. The next step is the horizontal weaving, continuing until the entire chair is covered both vertically and horizontally. The third step is another row of vertical, this one going slightly to the left of the first row. This allows the additional weaving steps to be easier. 

The total process has six steps of weaving then the final step is the final edge which is secured with binding cane which is a bit wider than the cane used on the chair. You come up through each hole then down the same hole, over the binding then securing the it by pulling the working cane through snugly on the underside, then repeating this on each hole until you complete the entire chair.  You secure the corners with a 1” piece of round peg cane that keeps the corners from coming apart. On the underside of the chair will be the loose strands of cane which will be tied beneath the woven strands created through the caning process. This is the last and final step before the chair is complete and ready to use.

My first caning chair was quite the challenge, but after watching many videos and reading material, have since done many caned chairs. Each time it gets a little bit easier, because I understand the weaving process. I’m currently self-learning yet a new type of weave, a rush chair, which is a completely different process from caning, since the entire chair is woven from the corners to the center, ending with a very narrow space to fill in the last strand. Rush is either natural or manufactured, but the process is the same. I’m in the early stages of this, but this evening I finally figured out the direction and how to get it positioned correctly. When I’m done I will hopefully will have four nicely finished rush chairs and a new skill under my belt. I’ll be posing those too, so keep checking back!

Vintage 1961 Lane Guitar Pick Table

 

Guitar Pick Table Before Stripping

Guitar Pick Table After Stripping

This is a vintage, 1961 Lane Guitar Pick table, well known for its unique shape which resembles a guitar pick (or Ouija board planchette) depending on how you look at it. My customer had found it on the side of the road. 

Someone had decided it was a good idea to spray paint it black. Perhaps it had belonged to someone’s grandmother and when they acquired it, they wanted a “modern” look, not realizing that it was already a mid-century classic without the need for paint. Luckily someone rescued it from the garbage truck and saw the beauty of this table. 

Whomever had dumped this beauty, clearly did not know what they had thrown own or its value. After we had researched this table, we found they were selling on eBay for between $1600-$1700. 

Like Lane cedar chests, you can tell the age of the piece by looking at the serial number (usually found on the bottom) and backward, it tells you the date the furniture was made. This table’s serial number was 610250, which translates to May 20, 1961. This little tidbit of information is fun to know when browsing estate sales or resale shops while looking for or at Lane furniture.

The unique two-tone, notched top characteristic was still visible, despite the paint. Luckily its tell-tale markings could still be seen beneath the thin layer of black spray paint. This table needed plenty of stripping and sanding to reveal the beautiful wood covered by the paint. Once that was removed, it revealed the beauty hidden for so many years. The two-tone wood was a perfect complement to the original cut and style of this table, making it a masterpiece for many years to come.

Rocking Chair Gets New Cushion

Chair w/new cushion

 

Chair w/old cushion

My only “fix” for this rocking chair was to overhaul the seat. The seat was original with springs that were attached to a very old frame which was coming apart. The springs were rusty, but still in good condition. After I removed the nasty fabric (you could see the springs popping through), there were two more layers of fabrics beneath it. 

The original fabric was a well-worn floral fabric and another layer of flowers was between the green outer fabric and the last one. All that fabric didn’t make the chair any more comfortable because the springs were literally visible through all layers. There was a scrap of burlap in there somewhere and the stuffing/batting was stuck inside the springs and weren’t really performing anymore. 

This seat needed a LOT of old fabric removal before anything could be done. At first I wasn’t sure how I’d secure those springs because the framework was made out of metal, with wood only on the bottom. 

After doing the eight-way tie on the springs, I realized that by securing the springs’ sides and centers to the wood frame would not only keep them from moving, it would also make the framework somewhat level. I didn’t do that in the photo shown, so you can see how the framework dips in the center. Once I had secured the entire perimeter, the springs were level. It worked great!

After the springs were taken care of, they were completely covered with burlap and secured to the bottom all around with staples. (I love my pneumatic stapler!) The next step was adding foam to the sides so that the foam pushed against the springs, thus protecting the sides from puncture and adding more "bounce.” 

Next, I added two layers of batting, one front to back and the second one left to right. I had left the sides open on the top layer so I can push the stuffing into it, bringing the cushion to a nice crown. Then I added two layers of muslin, with a very high thread count so that it’s super durable and makes a great base for the final layer, the outer fabric, which was a nice thin-striped ticking in a white with light tan, a great choice for this chair. The last step is painting it white, but my customer will take care of that. Some people like the “distressed” look, but for this chair we agreed that painting it white would look great with that crisp new fabric. I love the way this chair cushion turned out.

Mid-Century Chair Stripped / New Needlepoint Seat

Mid-Century Chair
w/Needlepoint After

 

Mid-century chair
before refinishing

It’s amazing how styles from the past tend to pop up fifty or sixty years later, as if the idea is brand new. This mid-century modern chair is classical 1960’s style, wide, low back and clean lines which were commonly seen in living rooms across America which mimicked the Scandinavian style. I loved the lines of this chair. 

This chair was extremely well made, quite strong and needed no tightening or repairs. The back had a few missing veneer pieces, which were easily filled in and stained so that it was hardly visible. 

I made the choice to completely strip this chair instead of touch-up because I felt that this is what it needed. In order to be true to the piece, you must determine what’s the best course of action to make it look the best it can. In this case, I stripped off the old finish, luckily wasn’t too difficult to remove as old stain mostly is. It came off easily and once that was done, I thoroughly sanded it, removing the excess stain and stripped. I cleaned it with lacquer thinner and sanded it smooth. 

I was very happy with the way the chair turned out. The light cherry stain was definitely the perfect color to offset the dark color of the needlepoint. A nice foam padding finished off the seat so that the chair is as comfortable as it is pretty.

I chose cherry stain to keep the color light which I felt complimented the lovely needlepoint seat that my customer made just for this seat. This was the third seat such as this that I had made for this same customer. The other two were benches. She is making a needlepoint seat for each of her grandchildren. She makes the needlepoint then finds the chair or bench which is the right size for the needlepoint. So far she’s been pretty lucky! 

To see one the previous needlepoint benches I made for this customer, check out the link below. Unfortunately, I don’t have a photo of the other one, but it had a blue background with a black bench.

https://www.blogger.com/blog/post/edit/5936537173467203420/24816612440806533 

1940’s Night Stand Restoration/Revival

Night Stand After

 

Night Stand Before

Some furniture has a lot more wear than others, therefore those most used could be in dire need of restoration and refinishing. Such is the case with this 1940’s night stand. It was made of solid mahogany, no veneer, which is a sign of a well-made piece of furniture. 

Most of the furniture we refinish has veneer. Sometimes it’s in great condition, other times it can be chipped a little bit or in major need of replacement. Not having veneer made this night stand much better to work on. It had definitely seen lots of use, especially the top, which was worn and scratched. 

It looked like someone tried to remove the finish on the left side of the top at some point in time, but never followed through with the rest of it. Not uncommon for someone to begin the stripping process and stop before getting too far into it once they realize that it’s a lot more difficult than they had originally planned. Using the right stripper is only part of the refinishing process. We always say, “if it doesn’t burn your skin, it’s not strong enough.” That sounds crazy, but it’s true. A good stripper is an essential part of furniture refinishing and restoration as it’s the first step before anything else can be done. 

Night Stand Drawer After

Night Stand Drawer Before

This night stand took me four days to strip from start to finish. Although the legs were Queen Anne style instead of spindles, they were still challenging to strip because they are curved. 

The tools we use to strip are straight, such as a putty knife and carving tools, so stripping a curved part of furniture takes a longer time than a straight section. And of course all the old finish must be removed or it’s impossible to sand and stain it. It’s all part of the process. The better the prep, the better the results. 

For this little gem, I custom-mixed red mahogany stain with a bit of English chestnut to give it a rich, natural color that was true to the original color. One of the fun things of refinishing/staining, is mixing two or three stains to create a completely new, unique color. Using your creative license is encouraged when working with stain colors. I chose a semi-gloss polyurethane to protect the stain. The drawer pull was pretty dull, so it got polished and painted with gold spray paint. The original pull was not brass, just metal, so painting it gold was a better look for the drawer. For a bit of whimsy, I painted the drawer’s interior and put a piece of glitter drawer liner on the bottom for a bit of “bling.” I was happy with the results as the refinished night stand was once again restored to its former glory.

His and Hers Twin Rocking Chairs

 

Rockers Before Restoration

Rockers After Restoration

Twin chairs! This was definitely a first for us, having two identical rocking chairs to refinish at the same time. The most surprising feature of these chairs was the size. Each chair weighed in at 60-70 lbs., possibly more. This required both of us to unload them from the customer’s van and bring them into our work space. 

Having chairs such as these as heavy as they were, made working on them quite challenging. They were not only heavy, they were huge! We have a large rocking chair in our living room with a similar style, but ours isn’t nearly as heavy as these were, nor is it as tall as these were.

The keyhole cutout design in the back center of each chair was a unique feature that gave them personality, adding a nice detail. The front of the chairs’ seat had a very rounded and thickness that I could hardly wrap my hand around. Yes, definitely massive. One of the chairs had suffered dog chew damage on the lower right leg spindle. The chairs had been repaired by someone else for the damage prior to us doing the refinishing. 

The chairs were both fairly worn and really cried out to be stripped, sanded and stained. This process was very time-consuming due to the sheer size of these mammoths and the detail, mainly the spindles, which if you’ve read other articles in our blog you know that they require a great deal of time and attention to remove all that old finish. We use work carving tools which allow us to get into the nitty-gritty of the spindles’ curves and tight spot. You’d be surprised at how much stain there is on any item of furniture even though it may look worn. There’s still a lot to remove. And that takes time. There’s simply no getting around that part of this work.

When the chairs were all stripped and sanded, Jim used English Chestnut stain, followed by three coats of polyurethane which will protect them for years to come. Refinishing really shows off the gorgeous woodgrain that was unseen prior to refinishing. That’s the beauty of a full refinish. You can see the woodgrain that is normally not as visible when furniture comes from the factory. Their process is different from hand finishing, therefore has a different look. 

If you've ever wondered if that special piece of furniture you’ve held onto for many years because you don’t know if it’s worth restoring, take a look at the wood. More times than not, once it is stripped, it is better than new because the hand stripping process restores it to its original beauty that was likely not seen when done on the assembly line. The value is already there so refinishing is always worth it. Unless a piece really is made cheaply and has no sentimental value, having it restored/refinished is a great way to preserve a piece of your family’s history or create a new family heirloom for future generations.

Mahogany Buffet Refinished

Buffet Before

Buffet After

One of my personal favorite refinishing woods is mahogany. Being a darker wood with a natural reddish tone, when refinished the woodgrain is more apparent, making it look fabulous. When furniture comes out of a manufacturing plant, much of it hides the natural grain of the wood. Unlike refinishing, furniture right from the factory woodgrain isn’t as prominent as it is upon stripping.

This buffet was a good, sturdy piece that had seen some wear, but overall was in great shape. There were minor scratches on the top, a few on the front legs and sides, but nothing that stripping and sanding can’t remove. Surface scratches are almost always removed when sanding, however, if the scratch is a gouge, sanding can only do so much. Especially with veneer furniture. If you sand too deeply, you will remove the veneer and go too far into the wood beneath (big problem!) That’s why we love working with antiques; the wood, even if it has veneer, is thicker and much more durable, thus better to work with on the refinishing end. 

That being said, the finishing product looks fabulous. Once it was stained and protected with satin polyurethane, Jim polished the original hardware, a Federal Style, and once again the piece looked like new (if not better!) I love the way hardware makes a piece truly stand out. Over time the brass will oxidize, faded and dull. But polished, it shines and adds beauty and freshness to any piece of furniture.

The beauty of working with a piece such as this mahogany buffet is that you have so many color choices with stain. Our customer chose “Carrington,” by Varithane. It’s a rich, warm color with no overly red tones. Mahogany can accept most stains, but seldom can you go a lot lighter with it because the wood is naturally reddish and darker, like walnut. A good tip to keep in mind when choosing stain is the wood itself. 

Darker woods usually cannot go much lighter than their natural color, but lighter wood, such as maple, birch or pine can accept both light and dark colors of stain. An example is if you were to put the same color stain on five different types of wood, each one would look different. Some wood has more grain than other wood, such as oak compared to birch. There are also different types of the same wood; tiger oak, tiger maple, birds eye maple, and so many more. The choices are endless as are the stain colors, so it’s not difficult to narrow down which stain is the right one for you.

Luckily we have plenty of experience in choosing the right stain for your project (unless you are 100% sure what you want). But no matter, the finished furniture item will always be the one you love the most.

Art Deco Vanity Better Than New

 

Vanity after w/o mirror

Vanity Before without mirror

Jim picked up this old vanity from the 1930’s, "art deco style," at an antique shop in Port Huron. It’s got the classic curvy waterfall style as we commonly see in cedar chests. It had five drawers but only four drawer pulls. I had envisioned something completely different, a
refreshing update, so I opted for paint. I chose Sherwin-Williams “Cotton White,” which is one of my favorite off-white colors. This painting preserved the antique look, but with an updated, twenty-first century functionality.

Vanity painted with mirror

Of course, as with every wood project, it’s essential to use a good primer so that the paint will adhere as it should. I actually used two coats of primer for the vanity and mirror. When Jim brought the vanity and mirror home, they were detached, so I had to take the photos separately since we didn’t put it together just for photos. Mirrors are super hard to photograph because they reflect whatever is opposite them, therefore I used a white sheet to block out the basement background (my workspace) but you get the idea. 

The mirror had some really cool design features. At the top there was an inverted curve of wood that had a carved flower motif in the center. That piece of wood, along with two metal brackets, held the mirror in place. 

To prepare the mirror for painting, I removed the mirror by removing the decorative piece of wood along with the mirror brackets, set them aside to be painted a different color. I sanded and primed the mirror and painted it to match the vanity. The bottom of the mirror had a decorative piece of wood that mimicked the front legs with an inverted curve. Both top and bottom wood accents were painted silver glitter. I opted to hand paint the flower in the center of the top mirror wood insert and it was the perfect little touch of glam. I painted the center drawer a bright tangerine and lemon yellow for the rest of the side drawers. I lined the bottom of the drawers with a super sparkly silver drawer liner. It was that perfect special touch that adds a bit of bling.

Once everything was done and the paint had dried sufficiently, Jim installed the new nickel drawer pulls which were the perfect finishing touch to this spectacular old piece of furniture.

Drawer liner center drawer

         

        Drawer liners

   

New nickel hardware

Antique Bench Trash To Treasure Showpiece

Antique Loveseat After

Antique Loveseat Before

Everyone has heard the term “One man’s trash is another man’s treasure.” This is one example of it. Our customer had told us his wife had found this bench on the side of the road. Evidently someone had tossed it out, with the trash. Luckily she saw the beauty hidden beneath a century of grime, dirt and stains. It had been in his workshop for a while so he decided to surprise her for Christmas and get it refinished.

This loveseat had a strong structure. Nothing was broken, just old and stained out fabric. This was going to be a challenge both of us would welcome. Little did we know just how gorgeous the wood beneath would become and present us with a showpiece.

After Jim removed the old fabric and springs, he began the tedious task of stripping the old finish. He discovered that this bench had never been re-upholstered, all was original, hence the stains and saggy seat. The underside of the bench had a vertical support board in the center on which a spring was mounted that was much higher than the other springs. This caused it to lift up past the rest of the springs. More likely the case was that the spring that was installed was a bit too large for that area and a smaller spring should have been used since it would have a different tension than the springs which were attached to the webbing. This wouldn’t be a problem because my plan was to use webbing with foam and cotton batting instead of springs. 

Jim was rather unsure of how the wood would accept the stain once he had the old finish completely stripped and sanded. He discovered the wood was quite “splotchy” and he thought it would maintain that look after it was stained. I realized that I’d seen this before, this type of reddish splotchy look in a couple of chairs I’d done before. They were made of bloodwood, which has this type of appearance. Bloodwood can be found in southern Africa. It is very unique because once the tree is cut, it “bleeds” with a reddish sap. This tree has medicinal qualities that can be used for healing. If you’d like to read more about bloodwood, check out this link: https://www.amusingplanet.com/2014/05/the-bloodwood-tree.html

We mixed two stains to create the perfect mix for this bench and wow! The color was perfect for the look we’d envisioned! The splotchy appearance was no longer visible. The stain flowed and covered the wood beautifully and we were very happy with the results. After Jim worked his magic with the stain and polyurethane, I could work mine. We chose the perfect fabric, a lovely gold threaded diamond pattern on a burgundy background. This is traditional fabric which we both agreed would be perfect for our customer’s décor. I used time and true upholstery techniques and lined the bottom with new webbing. (My pneumatic stapler is my favorite new tool!) 

Once the webbing was in place, I secured burlap over the top to strengthen the seat and maintain the tension. I had a 2” section of high density foam which was cut to size and placed on top of the burlap. Followed by Dacron, which was securely stapled around the perimeter. This added thickness and a firm seat. This was followed up with layered poly batting, creating a “crown” so the center of the bench curved with nice, rounded lines. Once everything was secured, I was able to install the beautiful fabric. We we right, it worked great. The last and final step was stapling the dust cover to the bottom to cover the webbing and finish off the bench. 

This was truly a gorgeous piece of furniture. And to think, someone tossed it out with the trash. Now it’ll become someones treasure for another century. Long after I’m gone, this bench will be gracing the home of future generations. I’m thrilled to be a part of it! This was definitely one of our favorites, a showpiece.

To see the other bloodwood furniture, check out this link: http://finalefurniture.blogspot.com/search?q=bloodwood+chair

Antique Parlor Chair Gets New Caning

 

Cane Chair Before

Cane Chair After

When a knee ends up in the seat of a caned chair, well, you have a problem, but not to worry, because it is fixable. It simply needs to be replaced with new caning. This antique parlor chair (it was so cute) had a perfectly round seat with a broken caned center. Like many caned chairs, they are not designed for a sudden, rapid force, such as a knee pushed in the center or a child who jumps from the chair, using it as a launching pad. Cane breaking is not uncommon, especially in old chairs. Unfortunately there’s no quick way to “fix” them. The cane must be replaced.

This little gem had strand caning, which is the weaving that requires a hank of cane in a specified size that is woven directly onto the holes surrounding the perimeter of the seat. I actually prefer this caning to the “press in” spline caning, because the process is quite relaxing. I work on chairs in my lovely sunroom (lots of natural daylight) while trying to keep my cats away from their natural instinct of pulling at what I’m tugging, which is each strand of cane as I weave it through the chair! They indeed love playing. Sadie likes to “sneak” off with a section of cane then run away, feeling like she got away with it. 😂

This chair had spindles on the front legs and overall, the chair was in great shape. You can’t beat hardwood, especially in antiques. They made furniture to last back then. Therefore when people ask the question, “Is it worth restoring?” I always answer with “yes,” because you already have the value in the chair (or other furniture item) so why not get it refinished and keep it another 100 years. It’s something to pass down for future generations. Because once they’re gone, they’re gone. Preserving the past, a bit of history, is a great way to appreciate the artistry created by someone who may not be around anymore. Get it done and you won’t regret it.

Sadie, my “helper"

Antique Mahogany Secretary

 

Secretary Before

The art of letter writing is almost a lost art. With the influx of everything

Secretary After

instantaneous with text messaging, e-mail and FaceTime, who wants to take the time to hand write anything? Yet, there’s something appealing to putting pen to paper and feel the words as they appear on your page. This antique mahogany secretary had been in the family for many years and had likely been witness to many such letters. It was probably used for bill paying, keeping track of household expenses and storing those stationary items to keep them accessible when you needed them. Because it was used quite a bit over the years, it was quite worn and needed refinishing. It’s hard to see in the picture, but the “after” photo shows new knobs, which were glass. (Unfortunately they don’t photograph very well.)

Secretary Inside After

Secretary Inside Before

Mahogany is one of my favorite woods to restore. It has such lovely patterns and tones that are rich with color and movement. This is a dream to strip and stain as it takes the new stain quite well. The interior also needed to be stripped, which is quite tedious because it had to come apart, otherwise you can’t reach those little cubby holes where envelopes are kept. It’s time-consuming work, no doubt about it. These things simply take a lot of time. 

There are no shortcuts to quality work. This piece, like many of that period, was a perfect size for a small office and a tidy way to keep track of those pesky papers you don’t want cluttering up your table. After it was stripped, sanded and re-stained then protected with two coats of polyurethane, it was once again a lovely piece of furniture that will be useful for many generations to come.

Antique Chair Updated to 21st Century

 

Antique Chair Before

Antique Chair After

Every household has chairs, usually lots of them. There are as many styles chairs as there are other types of furniture, but not many other furniture items are used as much as chairs, therefore they tend to get more wear than other furniture. 

Antique chairs are unique because the materials used in the 1920’s or 1930’s were limited and not as “user friendly” as they are today. This antique cherry chair was in relatively good condition, meaning it had good bones, but was in dire need of refinishing and new fabric. The fabric on this chair was not only very worn and threadbare, but no longer usable and likely had a zillion or more dust mites. 

For this type of project, Jim takes care of the refinishing and restoration process while I handle the new fabric. Jim used a custom mixed stain consisting of 25% mahogany and 75% chestnut, which looked fabulous. When the chair was finished and protected with two coats of polyurethane, I took over and tackled the fabric. I don’t claim to be an expert upholsterer (I’ll leave that to my local expert) but I can handle certain projects. Seat covers is much easier than working with an attached seat because you must allow for the fabric to go around the arms and back of the chair, which is a nail-biting experience. 

This chair originally had horse hair stuffing for the back and worn out springs for the seat. My experience with chair springs isn’t terrific, so I prefer to replace them with a sturdy new wood bottom and 2” of high density foam. The foam is covered with thick batting for extra cush for the tush, and finished with the customer’s fabric of choice. My customer chose a lovely paisley pattern,  definitely a 21st century fabric. With the freshly refinished wood and the new fabric, this chair will last another 125 years.

Antique Stained Glass Door Revival

 

Door Interior
Before

This antique door was well over 100 years old and had seen plenty of years of wear and weathering. The cracking was pretty severe and the windows, while amazingly weren’t broken, needed some TLC because the framework was deteriorating and held in by glaze. Unfortunately, upon removing some of the paint we discovered the door was not stainable, so our customer chose a fresh coat of paint.

The stripping process is always the most tedious in any refinishing project, but for doors a lot of the difficulty comes in with the type of paint that was used. The older the door, the harder it is to remove the paint. Milk paint was frequently used back then and with our experience, is quite difficult to remove. We either use a chemical stripper or a heat gun (or both) when we remove the old paint from most projects. 

Sometimes it’s just not possible to remove all the paint so we remove as much as we can then sand it smooth and prep it for paint. A coat of primer is necessary for any paint project whether it has had paint on it previously or not. Especially raw wood projects which always require primer. Once primed, painting flows smoothly. 

Door Interior
After

This door required more work because the customer needed the door knob and hardware moved to the opposite side because of where the door would be located, so it was necessary to remove the old hardware, fill the holes left with wood pieces, dowels and filler, sand it smooth and drill new holes on the other side of the door so that it opens correctly. The new hardware they chose was brass.

This door required refinishing as well as carpentry work. Jim made new moldings for the stained glass panels and replaced the center clear glass. The door was out of square so he made sure all was square and plumb which is necessary for a smooth installation.

As you can see in the photo to the right, once installed, the stained glass looked fabulous, adding charm and character to the kitchen. The color of the glass was not visible from the exterior due to the angle of the photo. Photos below are of the exterior before and after photos.

Door Exterior
Before

Door Exterior
After

Antique Bench Refinished w/needlepoint

Bench After

 

Bench Before

Although sturdy and strong enough to seat an adult, this antique bench was in dire need of refinishing. The front veneer had peeled off entirely while other areas that had veneer were loose. 

Since this was a natural hardwood, I removed the veneer completely since it looked better without it. The rest of the bench had no veneer and the wood was in great condition, but a bit scratched, mostly on the feet. The legs were a Queen Anne style, commonly used for this style of bench.

Prior to refinishing the bench, I first removed and found it had the original straw and batting, which was commonly used for making cushions one hundred years ago. I replaced that old straw with a 2” foam cushion and a layer of quilt batting for extra seating comfort. 

The bench required stripping, sanding and staining. I chose a mid-tone chestnut stain, which brought out the natural beauty of the wood. Satin polyurethane finished off the freshly stained wood so it remains protected for many years to come. My customer had her own needlepoint seat cover that she had wanted to use to replace the stained, worn old topper. The transformation was incredible, a nice piece of furniture anyone would be proud to own.

Oak Chairs Refinished

Oak Chair After

Oak Chair Before

We restore more chairs than anything else and the reason is simple. Everyone has them and eventually, they get pretty worn, damaged and no longer look good so they will require an overhaul. 

Depending on the amount of damage a chair retains, refinishing can be “lightweight,” meaning a little clean up and perhaps touch-up staining to a total restoration which requires the chair to be stripped down to bare wood (the preferred method), sanded thoroughly, wiped clean and stained with the choice of the customer.

This is one of two identical chairs that needed complete restoration. This one had some water damage on the top, but was overall in pretty good condition. Still strong and not requiring gluing of loose joints, once the stripped and sanding was complete, we applied a fresh coat of English Chestnut stain and two coats of semi-gloss polyurethane. Not only did the refinishing repair the damage, it brought out the luster and beauty of the wood which had been hiding under years of water damage and grime. Never underestimate the power of refinishing a chair! 

You’d be surprised how many people dumpster dive and bring us chairs that someone else had tossed and we made pretty again. The old saying “One man’s trash is another man’s (or woman’s) treasure,” is really true. It’s a shame to thing someone had tossed furniture away only to have it completely turned into a usable treasure, so keep that in mind when you look at an old item of furniture and think, “Is it worth it?” I can tell you with absolute certainty that it is always worth it if the furniture item has good bones. Furniture made of solid wood is built to last a lifetime. And not just the lifetime of a person, but several lifetimes throughout generations if it is taken care of. Maintaining the integrity and classic look of an old piece of furniture, be it a chair, table, dresser or cedar chest is keeping a part of history that we can learn from for generations to come.

Oak Teacher’s Desk Revival

Teacher's Desk Before

Remember elementary school? Do you still remember your teacher’s desk? Well, this was once a teacher’s desk that used way back in the day of notebooks (not laptop computers), pencils, typewriters and maybe even an apple on the teacher’s desk. 

Unlike the desks I remember from my early school years, this one had a unique feature; a slide-out, built-in filing cabinet with many cubby holes and slots for letters and other teacher-ish items. I had never seen a desk like this one. And you can imagine how extremely heavy it was!

Teacher's Desk After

The desk top had been destroyed by fire. Our customer thought the top had water damage, but upon closer inspection, it was fire, not water that had destroyed the top. We also noted that the original desk was likely a roll top, which was no longer part of the desk. Unfortunately the top’s damage was so severe, it was not able to be restored. It had to be replaced. 

We generally prefer to use the original pieces of our furniture restoration process, but when that isn’t an option, we rebuild it to resemble as closely to the original design as possible. The burnt top was comprised of border sections surrounding the center sections instead of larger boards simply glued together to create a uniform, single directional top. This was more involved and complex than a directional top and required much more wood in various lengths, but the new top was outstanding when it was done. Jim did a tremendous job in rebuilding the  top to best represent the original one. If I was the teacher, I’d give him an A+!

Tedious would be an understatement in describing the process of refinishing and restoring this desk. Every drawer had to be removed and labeled. The pull-out filing cabinet was its own entity that required even more disassembly and extra steps. The unique part of this little cabinet was that it rotated so that the teacher could easily access the files in the back. It also had its original snap-in alphabetical folders that the teacher probably used to keep track of her students. The handles did not come off, so the stripping and sanding process involved keeping them in place and working around them. The inside of the desk,  as well as the back, also had to be stripped, sanded and refinished. The stain used was golden oak with satin polyurethane to protect the desk for years to come. 

Burnt Top

Newly Built Top