Mission Style Chair Cushion

New Cushion on Back

This is a unique Mission style arts and crafts chair. My customer made the chair and the ottoman and used a leather  hide to make the seats but didn’t have a sewing machine so he hired me to make the seat’s back cushion. He purchased a large hide for the material so I worked with authentic leather instead of vinyl. This was my first leather job and I found it was not too difficult to work with as I had anticipated. Of course it was quite a bit heavier than vinyl, which makes this chair very durable. 

Cushions are deceptively difficult to cover because you must make the cushion cover smaller than the foam so that when you insert the foam, it fills the cushion to the edges snugly. You never want a saggy, larger than foam cover. As most cushions, I installed a zipper on the underside so it can be slipped over the foam. There’s really no other way to create a cushion cover without a zipper. 

The installation itself is challenging because the larger the foam, the deeper you must reach to push out the foam to the material’s edges. This wasn’t a boxed cushion, but more like a pillowcase, so it was a different process that required rounded edges instead of the traditional boxed-cushioned edges as used on couches and large chairs. The chair was finished and my customer could enjoy his efforts as well and mine. 

Antique China Cabinet Refinished

China Cabinet Before

China Cabinet After

Grandmother's antique China cabinet needed an overhaul. While in pretty decent condition (we’ve seen much worse!) Made of mahogany, this cabinet had plenty of space with shelving on the top and doors and drawers on the bottom. 

The middle top had a decorative piece of wood that had broken and become disconnected, so Jim glued it back together and put it back on top where it belonged.

In the process of restoring this cabinet, it was necessary to remove the decorative wood that covered the upper door to properly stain that area. The glass was removed to preserve and protect it during the restoration process. Each step is carefully taken to get the best results.

Our customer had wanted to replace the original wooden knobs with new ones and she chose black knobs, which looked great with the refinished cabinet. Jim used a red mahogany stain with satin polyurethane which was the perfect finish for this piece. Upon completion, this old cabinet certainly looked much better than when we got it.

Caned Chair Set Gets Newly Upholstered Seat

Chair With New Seat

Chair Before New Seat

My customer saw a set of these chairs at an estate sale and at first walked away from them, but after a while she came back and ended up purchasing them for $20.00. Even with the reupholstery work, they still cost less than purchasing new chairs. This isn’t always the case, because traditionally reupholstered furniture costs more than replacing furniture but if you have a piece that you cherish or is made very well, reupholstering is a great choice.

My customer chose a bold blue and white material with a loose weave. The chairs became statement pieces with their bold new look. The fabric had a modern theme which works well with many styles of décor. The seats were also quite large, which allows space for a vibrant pillow to accentuate the chairs’ unique style. These chairs had a “press-in” caned surround with solid wood structure and were very well made. If you come across furniture such as these chairs at an estate sale or resale shop, they are worth the price because chances are they are made very well and will last for many years to come.

Fluted Chair Reupholstery Rescue!

Chair After

Chair Before

This chair was in desperate need of being rescued from severe damage from an enthusiastic dog or two. The seat was not usable because the springs were exposed from the large tear and were also damaged beneath. The left arm had been chewed to expose the wood. This chair certainly needed a lot of attention and dedication of time to bring it back to life.

The style of this chair is fluted, or channel back. These “flutes” or “channels” are created by sewing the separate front strips of fabric to a large backing with lines marked according to size, then stitched to the backing fabric and stuffed with cotton or polyester fiberfill to create the flutes.

My first approach was to remove all the old fabric, nails, staples, stuffing and webbing. Once I got down to the springs, I realized they needed to be re-tied which meant they had to be removed along with the old webbing which holds the springs in place. This is an intense process that takes a lot of patience and time to do it right. But there are no shortcuts to good upholstery. Once the springs were secured and tied, I began to build up the seat to create that nice “crown” which is an important element in a nicely structured chair. The first step was to cover those springs with burlap and secure it to all the sides, keeping the springs in their respective places. A layer of cotton batting was next, followed by a section of foam to cover the seat, another two layers of batting then covered with a large sheet of high thread count muslin. This gives the seat a pre-finished look and the top fabric a good foundation to adhere to.

Once the seat was done, the next step was the interior of the arms. Like the seat, I added several layers of batting to build up the arms, then covered them with the new fabric. You must have a “feel” for how much batting to use. Once you’re satisfied with the cushy feeling, it’s ready for fabric. Then it was time to install the flutes.  Essentially flutes or channels are constructed with a series of separate fabric sections stitched together to create one large piece, which is then attached to the chair as one unit. This is tricky because the flutes, or channels, must remain centered while you are working the fabric, attaching them to the top and bottom of the chair. Lots of tugging and pulling at this point! The center flutes were pre-stuffed prior to attachment, then the edges are filled in place after the flutes are attached by filling in the areas with layers of cotton or poly batting, then secured with staples.

Next step was the outside of the arms. I attach them using cardboard strips stapled underneath the side arms then pulled downward and attached to the underside of the chair. Snip close to the curve so later you can finish it off with the cording or piping. Lastly was the back. I use ply-grip, which are sharp little spikes on a roll that attaches to the curved back of the chair with staples or nails, then each ply-grip section is bent toward the chair halfway, while gently folding the fabric into it. Once all the fabric is wrapped around the sharp spikes, you pound the ply-grip down with a rubber mallet or hammer to secure it permanently to the back. This provides a seamless, clean back.

The fun part was adding the piping/cording to the front arms and around the back where the ply-grip was attached. This is my favorite part because it means I’m close to being done! The chair was very challenging but each time I work on such a project, I learn a new skill or how to do something a little bit better and that’s the true reward of this type of work.

Left side before - Right side after

Cute Rocking Chair Caning

Rocking Chair After

Rocking Chair Before

This was a very dainty, cute rocking chair that as many before it, had a broken seat.  It’s not uncommon for older caned chairs to become brittle and are easily damaged when a knee happens to land in the center of it or it one sits in it a bit too hard. While a caned chair can last many years, they do require a bit of a gentle touch when used as an everyday chair. Luckily the back of the chair was still in tact, so just the seat needed replacing.

As a smaller chair, this one was perfect for a shorter person as it was close to the ground, so it would be easy to get up from. I loved the curved arms of this chair. They were so smooth and well made. The chair was also very sturdy.

This was a strand caning job, which means that the caning is woven in the six steps used for this method. The first three steps are fairly straightforward, front to back, left to right then front to back once again to cover the first row. 

The next step is the first weave, under step three over step one. You do this until the entire chair is done, then you begin the first diagonal weave starting in the upper right corner and working your way to the back, then picking up and working your way to the front of the chair. The next diagonal weave is opposite the first, starting in the left corner and working your way to the back, then finishing the same way you did for the first weave and working your way to the front. 

Once the diagonal weaves are done, you use a wider strand of caning to bind the edging by pulling through the narrow caning up and over the wider caning until it covers the holes. The very last step is tucking in all the loose strands that pile up on the underside of the chair. This requires pulling the loose strands underneath the tied ends and pulling them tightly before snipping them off. Then the chair is done.

Caning is a dying art. Not many people do this tedious work anymore because it takes time (a commodity for sure) and patience. My first few chair took me over a week to do, but as I progressed, the process became easier and I became more proficient at each step. Tip: you need to really pay attention to the direction of the weave in all steps. If you go in the wrong direction, you usually won’t spot it right away, but it will throw you off and then you’ll have to undo all the wrong caning and redo it or it won’t work right and you’ll see it. Take your time and do it right and it will save you a lot of heartache and headache down the road.

Ladies Antique Chair Reupholstered

Antique Chair After

Antique Chair Before

I believe this chair dated back to the late 1800’s. It had a broken arm and lower right side unattached, this chair had seen better days. The fabric, though old, was reupholstered since the chair’s construction, however it was done a long time ago. My guess it was done sometime in the 1940’s, judging by the needlepoint style material they had used. 

This chair had likely been made with seat springs, but during the 1940’s upholstered was replaced with thin plastic webbing on the bottom of the chair. It also had a couple hundred tacks surrounding the bottom seat as well as the arms and back rest. My customer had planned on doing the work herself, so she had already removed the needlepoint fabric from the backrest of the chair, but soon realized it was quite a bit of work.

Removing the material was time consuming and tedious. First I had to remove hundreds of staples. These staples were not your average staple, but extra thick copper staples that were quite difficult to remove. Removing that many staples gives your upper body a workout (translation: you will be sore the next day!) Then I had to remove all those tacks, which were rusted and stuck to the fabric in most of the areas. Using tack removal tools as well as a vice grip helps the process along. 

Once all the staples and tacks were removed, I could remove the old fabric. The chair had a broken right arm, which was obvious, but after I removed the material, I discovered it also had come apart at the lower right leg/seat area as well as a portion of the front of the framework. Jim made the necessary repairs then I could start the process of adding the new fabric.

The chair had a very old, very brittle cushion which was shaped to fit the chair but was no longer usable as it had the texture of a loaf of dry bread. As I was removing the staples the foam was leaking a yellow powder which resembled a cake mix. No way would I reused this foam. Instead I created a new foam seat base after I built the foundation with webbing. 

I used 2” foam cut to size which covered the underside webbing, then I added criss-cross webbing on top of the foam, front to back and left to right, for a more stable seat. Next I added a thick layer of raw cotton, which comes on a roll and can be torn apart, easily filling the seat area. This cotton is very soft and wonderful to use on a chair’s seat. On the raw cotton I added a fitted cut size of 1” foam followed by a second layer of raw cotton. Finally I topped it off with a double layer of polyester batting to hold everything together with a good top base. I always use the “sit on it” test before adding the fabric, which means I sit on the chair and if it feels good to me, it’s ready for material. 

The customer provided two identical fabric panels, each with a single large flower which she had wanted centered in the seat and back portions of the chair. She also brought purple velour for the small section of the arms and the open back facing fabric (not seen in photos). The purple color choice was perfect as it pulled the color from purple flowers. I added gimp trim along the bottom edge, arms and top front to cover the staples and add a touch of elegance to the chair. It was once again a beauty that will last another hundred years. 

1940s Bedroom Refinishing Project

Low Dresser After

Low Dresser Before

This was one of several pieces of a 1940s vintage bedroom set which Jim recently refinished. It had seen some wear because it had been used for a few generations and needed some revitalizing and love. 

We were excited to take on this project which had two dressers as seen in this post. This bedroom set also had a mirror, bed with headboard and footboard and side rails (not pictured). It’s difficult to get photos of the items when they are delivered in sections. This furniture was in pretty good condition, had great bones, but the exterior had seen some wear and scratching, not uncommon for a vintage bedroom set. Luckily there was no structural or water damage which can be harder to rectify. 

Jim had blended two different stains to obtain a unique color that best suited the furniture. It turned out to be a perfect color for the dressers, resulting in a rich tone which best shows the woodgrain which was hidden prior to the refinishing. That’s one of the many perks of working with stains; custom blending which results in a unique color. It’s quite noticeable in the tall dresser (below) what a variation in color can be in the “before” photo. When furniture is made in a factory, the staining process is quite different from refinishing by hand. They use a spray stain that has a different look, more opaque so the woodgrain is not as visible as it is once it is stripped and refinished. One of the benefits of the hand stripping/refinishing process is that it exposes the natural beauty of the wood.

The scratches on the tops of the dressers were superficial, so they were easily sanded down once the dressers were stripped. Dressers require a great deal of work because each drawer is an individual section that requires removal of hardware and is treated one at a time while stripping, sanding and staining before finishing with polyurethane to protect the finishes. The low dresser (as seen in photos above) had six drawers with general depths. These older dresser have much more space than their newer counterparts and are made very well, so they are usually worth refinishing. It truly is an investment worth doing to preserve a piece of your family’s history.

Tall Dresser After

Tall Dresser Before

The taller dresser (shown left) had four large drawers and two smaller ones at the top. The oval hardware was original in the Federal style. Some customers prefer the original hardware and others like to give their furniture an updated look and replace it, but either way, refinishing a bedroom set is always worth doing because you already have made the investment in the furniture, so why not keep it for generations to come? It’s a wonderful way to honor your family’s history.