Tavern Chairs' Revival

Chair After

Chair Before

A set of four chairs that very much looked like they'd be at home in a 19th Century English Tavern, had been neglected for a long time and needed life breathed back into them. This photo shows the worst of the four, since it looked like it had been left out in the weather. It was in pretty rough shape. 

The original seat and back were black vinyl, with upholstery tacks surrounding the seat area and sides of the top. The seats were torn and the foam was destroyed. Time to renew.

There was a lovely medallion carving in the center of the back, which was almost invisible prior to refinishing. Made of solid (and I mean SOLID) oak, these chairs must have weighed 40 lbs. each. This made the refinishing and reupholstery project tough, because of how many times needed to move the chairs to complete the work.

To save time, Jim removed the black vinyl and got to work. He opted to take them apart so he could access the areas that needed to be re-glued and repaired and that's the best and proper way to do it. Apart, he sanded the pieces down to bare wood then stained them with English Chestnut stain.  Once the new stain was applied, the chairs were put together and "brought back to life." The final step was sprayed the polyurethane, and wow! The chairs were beautiful and that beautiful flower medallion just popped! 

Once he was done working his magic, it was time for me to work mine. The chairs needed new fabric. My customer and I agreed gray would be a nice color. The old padding was not usable, so each chair got new foam and batting on the seats. As I stated before, these chairs were HEAVY! Since adding material requires a lot of moving the chair around, it was necessary to lift them up to put on my work table then down again on the floor for stapling and then up on the table again to continue other parts. You get the picture. 

The curved back portion of the chair was trickier than it first looked, because each chair needed a template which I had to create from the chair's measurements instead of using the old material, since it was so distorted and badly damaged it was unusable. Upholstery has many challenges, one being sometimes you simply do not know what is involved until you get into it. Such was the case with the backs. Once I figured out that part, measuring the material properly was crucial, because if the measurement was incorrect, it wouldn't fit. 

I created templates out of card stock, which gave me the precise size of each fabric section. I had to line up the top edges of the curved portion of the top prior to stitching, so that once it was pulled into position, it would fit snugly to the bottom edge before I could attach the underside with staples. This required a lot of lifting, turning, more lifting, more turning, etc. Good body mechanics is essential when doing this heavy lifting.

The last step in the process was adding the double welt cord around the seat to finish it off with a polished, professional look. I used hot glue on the double welt cord, as it is the most effective way to attach welt cord, but I also like to reinforce welt cord with tiny nails to make sure it doesn't move over time. Needless to say I was extremely happy to finish these heavy, but lovely, tavern chairs.

New Cushion Covers for Dining Chairs

Old Cushion Cover

New Cushion Fabric

My customer had wanted new cushion covers for her dining room set and selected the fabric. It was an updated material, but the fabric was considerably thicker and durable for this application. The cushions measured 18" x 17". 

I installed new zippers on each one of them in addition to new welting all the way around. The fabric was directional, so I had to be very conscious of the cutting and layout. An advantage of non-directional fabric is that it really doesn't matter how you lay out the template, but in this case, I had to pay close attention to that.

The results were great! The pattern flowed nicely with the cushion and gave it the updated look my customer had wanted.

Caned Chair Set Gets Newly Upholstered Seat

Chair With New Seat

Chair Before New Seat

My customer saw a set of these chairs at an estate sale and at first walked away from them, but after a while she came back and ended up purchasing them for $20.00. Even with the reupholstery work, they still cost less than purchasing new chairs. This isn’t always the case, because traditionally reupholstered furniture costs more than replacing furniture but if you have a piece that you cherish or is made very well, reupholstering is a great choice.

My customer chose a bold blue and white material with a loose weave. The chairs became statement pieces with their bold new look. The fabric had a modern theme which works well with many styles of décor. The seats were also quite large, which allows space for a vibrant pillow to accentuate the chairs’ unique style. These chairs had a “press-in” caned surround with solid wood structure and were very well made. If you come across furniture such as these chairs at an estate sale or resale shop, they are worth the price because chances are they are made very well and will last for many years to come.

Fluted Chair Reupholstery Rescue!

Chair After

Chair Before

This chair was in desperate need of being rescued from severe damage from an enthusiastic dog or two. The seat was not usable because the springs were exposed from the large tear and were also damaged beneath. The left arm had been chewed to expose the wood. This chair certainly needed a lot of attention and dedication of time to bring it back to life.

The style of this chair is fluted, or channel back. These “flutes” or “channels” are created by sewing the separate front strips of fabric to a large backing with lines marked according to size, then stitched to the backing fabric and stuffed with cotton or polyester fiberfill to create the flutes.

My first approach was to remove all the old fabric, nails, staples, stuffing and webbing. Once I got down to the springs, I realized they needed to be re-tied which meant they had to be removed along with the old webbing which holds the springs in place. This is an intense process that takes a lot of patience and time to do it right. But there are no shortcuts to good upholstery. Once the springs were secured and tied, I began to build up the seat to create that nice “crown” which is an important element in a nicely structured chair. The first step was to cover those springs with burlap and secure it to all the sides, keeping the springs in their respective places. A layer of cotton batting was next, followed by a section of foam to cover the seat, another two layers of batting then covered with a large sheet of high thread count muslin. This gives the seat a pre-finished look and the top fabric a good foundation to adhere to.

Once the seat was done, the next step was the interior of the arms. Like the seat, I added several layers of batting to build up the arms, then covered them with the new fabric. You must have a “feel” for how much batting to use. Once you’re satisfied with the cushy feeling, it’s ready for fabric. Then it was time to install the flutes.  Essentially flutes or channels are constructed with a series of separate fabric sections stitched together to create one large piece, which is then attached to the chair as one unit. This is tricky because the flutes, or channels, must remain centered while you are working the fabric, attaching them to the top and bottom of the chair. Lots of tugging and pulling at this point! The center flutes were pre-stuffed prior to attachment, then the edges are filled in place after the flutes are attached by filling in the areas with layers of cotton or poly batting, then secured with staples.

Next step was the outside of the arms. I attach them using cardboard strips stapled underneath the side arms then pulled downward and attached to the underside of the chair. Snip close to the curve so later you can finish it off with the cording or piping. Lastly was the back. I use ply-grip, which are sharp little spikes on a roll that attaches to the curved back of the chair with staples or nails, then each ply-grip section is bent toward the chair halfway, while gently folding the fabric into it. Once all the fabric is wrapped around the sharp spikes, you pound the ply-grip down with a rubber mallet or hammer to secure it permanently to the back. This provides a seamless, clean back.

The fun part was adding the piping/cording to the front arms and around the back where the ply-grip was attached. This is my favorite part because it means I’m close to being done! The chair was very challenging but each time I work on such a project, I learn a new skill or how to do something a little bit better and that’s the true reward of this type of work.

Left side before - Right side after

Antique Bench Trash To Treasure Showpiece

Antique Loveseat After

Antique Loveseat Before

Everyone has heard the term “One man’s trash is another man’s treasure.” This is one example of it. Our customer had told us his wife had found this bench on the side of the road. Evidently someone had tossed it out, with the trash. Luckily she saw the beauty hidden beneath a century of grime, dirt and stains. It had been in his workshop for a while so he decided to surprise her for Christmas and get it refinished.

This loveseat had a strong structure. Nothing was broken, just old and stained out fabric. This was going to be a challenge both of us would welcome. Little did we know just how gorgeous the wood beneath would become and present us with a showpiece.

After Jim removed the old fabric and springs, he began the tedious task of stripping the old finish. He discovered that this bench had never been re-upholstered, all was original, hence the stains and saggy seat. The underside of the bench had a vertical support board in the center on which a spring was mounted that was much higher than the other springs. This caused it to lift up past the rest of the springs. More likely the case was that the spring that was installed was a bit too large for that area and a smaller spring should have been used since it would have a different tension than the springs which were attached to the webbing. This wouldn’t be a problem because my plan was to use webbing with foam and cotton batting instead of springs. 

Jim was rather unsure of how the wood would accept the stain once he had the old finish completely stripped and sanded. He discovered the wood was quite “splotchy” and he thought it would maintain that look after it was stained. I realized that I’d seen this before, this type of reddish splotchy look in a couple of chairs I’d done before. They were made of bloodwood, which has this type of appearance. Bloodwood can be found in southern Africa. It is very unique because once the tree is cut, it “bleeds” with a reddish sap. This tree has medicinal qualities that can be used for healing. If you’d like to read more about bloodwood, check out this link: https://www.amusingplanet.com/2014/05/the-bloodwood-tree.html

We mixed two stains to create the perfect mix for this bench and wow! The color was perfect for the look we’d envisioned! The splotchy appearance was no longer visible. The stain flowed and covered the wood beautifully and we were very happy with the results. After Jim worked his magic with the stain and polyurethane, I could work mine. We chose the perfect fabric, a lovely gold threaded diamond pattern on a burgundy background. This is traditional fabric which we both agreed would be perfect for our customer’s décor. I used time and true upholstery techniques and lined the bottom with new webbing. (My pneumatic stapler is my favorite new tool!) 

Once the webbing was in place, I secured burlap over the top to strengthen the seat and maintain the tension. I had a 2” section of high density foam which was cut to size and placed on top of the burlap. Followed by Dacron, which was securely stapled around the perimeter. This added thickness and a firm seat. This was followed up with layered poly batting, creating a “crown” so the center of the bench curved with nice, rounded lines. Once everything was secured, I was able to install the beautiful fabric. We we right, it worked great. The last and final step was stapling the dust cover to the bottom to cover the webbing and finish off the bench. 

This was truly a gorgeous piece of furniture. And to think, someone tossed it out with the trash. Now it’ll become someones treasure for another century. Long after I’m gone, this bench will be gracing the home of future generations. I’m thrilled to be a part of it! This was definitely one of our favorites, a showpiece.

To see the other bloodwood furniture, check out this link: http://finalefurniture.blogspot.com/search?q=bloodwood+chair

Antique Chair Updated to 21st Century

 

Antique Chair Before

Antique Chair After

Every household has chairs, usually lots of them. There are as many styles chairs as there are other types of furniture, but not many other furniture items are used as much as chairs, therefore they tend to get more wear than other furniture. 

Antique chairs are unique because the materials used in the 1920’s or 1930’s were limited and not as “user friendly” as they are today. This antique cherry chair was in relatively good condition, meaning it had good bones, but was in dire need of refinishing and new fabric. The fabric on this chair was not only very worn and threadbare, but no longer usable and likely had a zillion or more dust mites. 

For this type of project, Jim takes care of the refinishing and restoration process while I handle the new fabric. Jim used a custom mixed stain consisting of 25% mahogany and 75% chestnut, which looked fabulous. When the chair was finished and protected with two coats of polyurethane, I took over and tackled the fabric. I don’t claim to be an expert upholsterer (I’ll leave that to my local expert) but I can handle certain projects. Seat covers is much easier than working with an attached seat because you must allow for the fabric to go around the arms and back of the chair, which is a nail-biting experience. 

This chair originally had horse hair stuffing for the back and worn out springs for the seat. My experience with chair springs isn’t terrific, so I prefer to replace them with a sturdy new wood bottom and 2” of high density foam. The foam is covered with thick batting for extra cush for the tush, and finished with the customer’s fabric of choice. My customer chose a lovely paisley pattern,  definitely a 21st century fabric. With the freshly refinished wood and the new fabric, this chair will last another 125 years.

Updated Cricket Maple Rocking Chair

New Silk Fabric Replaced Original Corduroy

This is what is called a “cricket” rocker. The rocking mechanism is actually hidden underneath the seat and skirting of this cute little chair, allowing it to rock without moving the legs, as in a traditional rocking chair. I have done a chair similar to this one many years ago. It had the same rocking mechanism, but was a Windsor style chair with more exposed wood and no arm rest covers. You can see that chair here:
http://finalefurniture.blogspot.com/2012/09/the-ugly-rocking-chair.html

While similar to the other rocking chair, this one had many more components, thus required more work. But, since I had done a similar chair, I knew what to do on this one and in what order to work on each segment. As with the other checkered gingham chair, I began with the seat cushion. Like the gingham chair, it too had cording running along the top and bottom edges that curved around the shape of the foam. Luckily I was able to use the same foam for this chair. The fabric, a high-quality woven silk, required each raw edge to be serged so that they would not fray over time, causing the seams to split apart long before their time. This was an additional but necessary step.

fter I finished the seat cushion, I chose to work on the skirting and bottom part of the chair. I replaced the old, pushed in webbing with new upholstery webbing which is 3 inches wide and much stronger than the old rubbery plastic that was used. I attached the webbing with upholstery tacks (preferable to staples) and protected each raw edge with string tape. Once the webbing was done, I replaced the original webbing cover with another piece of the new fabric, with finished edges that were cut at angles in the corners to match the original.

I measured the two skirting sections, front and back, and cut two very long, continuous strips of fabric for each one. I measured each pleat to be 3 inches between pleats and it worked out to be the perfect amount to fit evenly from beginning to end for the front and again for the back. Remembering the difficulty I had attached the pleats in the other chair I had done, this time I stitched the pleats on the sewing machine, then carefully measured them against the chair before attaching them permanently.

After the skirting was complete, I made the arm rests, copying them from the original pattern as I did with the rest of the pieces and attaching them to the arms with two sets of Velcro straps so they don’t slide off. They were tricky because I cut the fabric to flow with the curve of each arm’s end. It looked much better having these arm covers fit the exact shape of the wood beneath.

The back cushion had its own challenges. The original cushion had four snaps that held it in place from the back of the chair. Anticipating the outcome, I made the new snap straps long enough to be adjusted when the time came to attach them. Prior to sewing the cushion front to back, I placed the straps where I thought they would go, pinned them in place, then sewed them to the back side of the cushion with long basting stitches. Once the cushion was done, I realized the straps didn’t quite reach the snaps, but no worries. I opened up the seams and pulled the straps further out to reach the snaps. Boy, was I glad I left additional fabric to reach the snaps once the cushion filled the fabric sides. (Experience really is the best teacher). Because the other chair also had snaps, I knew longer fabric would be necessary to make the new straps reach. (The other chair had three snaps on the top edge only, while this chair had two snaps on the top and two on the bottom).

Each cushion received a zipper in the back and bottom for easy removal if they require washing or dry cleaning. Making these type of seat cushions isn’t my favorite thing to do, but it is a great feeling to know that it is a skill I have developed with experience and a LOT of patience.

Vintage Wing Chair Gets New Fabric

New Gingham Fabric

This chair had an outdated blue and white plaid fabric which had been popular in the 1970’s. While still in good condition, an updated look was in order, so my customer choose this lovely gingham checkered fabric which suited the style of the chair as well as the era.

This chair was quite challenging because of the many components and sections it had. Because of these many components, I had to carefully remove them all, taking good photos and tagging each one, so I could refer to them later when I put the new fabric on each section. I decided to tackle the hardest piece first and worked on the bottom cushion, then the back cushion. Unfortunately, I have no photos of the chair before I began working on it, but I did take a photo of the cushion so I knew how to put it together.

Old Cushion

Because the bottom cushion had cording on the top and bottom edges, all the way around, and wrapping around the chair’s arms, I knew this was going to be a difficult job because I had done a chair such as this before and knew what was involved. Lining up the cording to match the curves is difficult, to say the least as you have a very narrow and sharply curved area in which to create a tightly fitted, finished corded seat. This was indeed the hardest part of the cushion.

Once that was complete, I “tested” it by slipping it over the cushion and was not pleased that the brand new seat I had just spent four days on no longer fit the original cushion. I opted for not making another cover, but getting a brand new cushion, custom made to fit my cover. The Foam Factory was a life-saver! I took my fabric piece there and left it in their capable hands to make a workable cushion that would look great and be extremely comfortable and fit well. Indeed, the new cushion was perfect and all the work I did was worth it because the seat was super comfortable and fit the chair perfectly.

The wing chair portion had fabric that faced the inside and outside, so each piece had to be marked, “inside facing right, outside of fabric, inside of fabric," etc. This method of marking my photos proved to be invaluable when I put it all together. The padded armrests were yet another story. The original foam was deteriorated and had suffered “dry rot,” which happens when foam cushions basically fall apart, leaving a dusty yellow residue. I replaced them with leftover cushion from another project which worked great. I used my scroll saw to cut and shape the 3” cushion. You can use an electric knife to cut thick cushions, but since I don’t own an electric knife, my scroll saw worked wonderfully, slicing right through the foam like butter. Having the right tools is essential for any project! Finally, the chair was done with new fabric and look pretty good if I do say so myself.