Sofa Gets Six New Box Cushions

Updated, New Foam w/Tweed Fabric

Outdated Fabric,
Saggy Cushion

If you’ve lived through the 1970’s, you’ll likely have owned or knew someone who owned a sofa with fabric that looked similar to the one on the left. I refer to this as “Brady Bunch” fabric, the popular rust, tan and brown used on the show along with bright orange, green and yellow tones. My parents had a similar style sofa and chair in their living room, but with more green and a smaller plaid than this one. Since the 1970’s, fabrics have changed and we have so many more options in the twenty-first century than we did in the 1970’s. The sofa had a total of six cushions, three seat and three accompanying back cushions.

The original covers had a center seam style with a single row of piping which surrounded the top and bottom seat, along with a rear metal zipper. Modern box cushions are constructed with a top, a bottom and a center “boxing” which includes a zipper placket. The best technique to make these box cushions is to measure the size of the foam and allow at least 5/8” seam allowance for each side. These cushions needed new foam which was 6”, so it was necessary to allow a 7-1/2” zipper placket and a 6-1/2” surround, which is sewn to the completed placket. If all seams are sewn properly and accurately, both fabric sections should line up for a nice, even continuous side boxing. 

For these cushions, it was easier to make the top and bottom portions, adding the piping to each one, then stitching the zipper placket in place using clips, which are easy to move when you’re fitting the placket to the top and bottom fabric. A piping foot is an essential tool for this project. Piping (also known as welting or cording) is comprised of a tightly wrapped polyester cord commonly used in upholstery projects as an insert, for a customized, decorative edge. In apparel, it can be used as a décor item or trim. Piping comes in various thicknesses for different applications. 

These were six loose cushions used on a wood-framed sofa. The foam itself had severely deteriorated (as 50 year old foam will) and was crumbling inside the fabric, leaving a fine, yellow powdery residue. Surprisingly the fabric was not torn or damaged, but was very loose and saggy, due to the cushion no longer holding its shape as a result of shrunken, deteriorated foam. Therefore six new foam cushions was a must, as well as new fabric. If you’re going to invest in new fabric, it’s recommended to get new foam to get the maximum comfort and longest wear. However, if your cushions are still in good shape, they can be used with new fabric. All new foam is then wrapped in Dacron for a nice crown and better shaping.

The customer chose a lovely gray tweed interspersed with off white, nicely woven into the gray. The color combination was great and the fabric was easy to work with, despite it being relatively heavy upholstery material. The stitches were practically invisible (always a bonus) therefore the cushions came together beautifully. They should last many years and provide comfort and support to all who sit on them. 

Antique Eastlake Cabinet Upgrade

Cabinet Before

Cabinet After

Once used as a tall dresser, this antique cabinet was in pretty rough condition prior to restoration. Actually, upon receiving it and getting started on the refinishing process, it sort of, well, fell apart. The piece had seen plenty of use over its sixty-plus years and many of the joints had come unglued, so it made sense to simple separate those loose joints and disassemble it to properly strip, sand and stain it the right way. 

The interior of this cabinet had three adjustable shelves, which had a unique adjustability system. The wood in the rear and front of the cabinet had slots which held small sections of wood that each shelf rested on and were easily removed so that they were easily adjustable to whatever height you needed. 

The bottom drawer was an unremarkable feature of the cabinet, the lovely brass drawer pulls blended into the background. It was also in need of a new bottom since the original one had been damaged and was no longer usable. Once the new bottom was built and installed, it was once again strong and usable. 

The hardware was polished, which included the drawer pulls and hinges. The bottom drawer, once almost invisible, was a focal point, the brass pulls looked like new. The keyhole slots were original, but two out the three were broken and had to be replaced with newly constructed, custom made key slots which looked almost identical to the original. When a piece of an old item of furniture is missing, it’s almost impossible to find that exact piece so a bit of ingenuity and design comes in handy to create a replica. 

The right side of the cabinet did not have glass, but plexiglass that was held closed with a piece of cardboard. Of course this wouldn’t do, so we replaced the plexiglass with glass and added a magnet at the top of the right (opening) door so that it would stay closed. A new stain and three coats of polyurethane to protect the surfaces and this old beauty got a major upgrade. Amazing how beautiful wood that hides beneath years of usage becomes when it is revealed with refinishing. This was indeed a lovely piece of furniture that we enjoyed working on.

Bar Stool Gets New Upholstery

Bar Stool Before

Bar Stool After

This bar stool was in desperate need of new fabric, otherwise it had great bones. The fabric was circa 1980 and had seen better days. Ripped on the seat it needed replacing.

The wood was teak as it was originally used on a boat. Still in great condition and sturdy, this heavy chair only needed new an updated look.

In order to reupholster the seat, I removed the arms and flipped the chair upside down to remove the staples which held the old, outdated and very stiff fabric in place. The foam was yellowed, but otherwise still usable. I decided to use the old fabric as a template, which needed to be taken apart so I could design a new seat with the existing fabric to get the right measurements, which is essential to get a good fit. It was much easier than I thought it would be and I was satisfied with the way the new fabric hugged the seat perfectly.

Antique Writing Desk

Writing Desk Before

Writing Desk Before

Long before e-mails, texts, instagram, Facebook and Twitter, people spent a lot of time composing handwritten letters as a way of corresponding with friends and family. There was a sense of satisfaction in holding that special pen and putting it to paper, allowing your thoughts to flow through your hands in a script scral that reflected your unique personality and penmanship. With the electronic, fast paced world we live in, writing letters by hand has all but become a lost art. It's definitely faster to write using a keyboard, but there's something special and magical about writing "old school," using a pen and a piece of lined paper we used in school. While writing that way now gives me writer's cramp (as does long periods of working on my Macintosh), I still enjoy the art of letter writing using fancy stationery and my favorite ink pen. It's a timeless craft that never goes out of style.

Writing Desk After

This antique writing desk was likely used for composing letters by hand and keeping track of bills and correspondence with its five generously sized cubby slots to easily organize one's life. Made of solid walnut, this writing desk had great bones, with surface scratches on the split top and really rusty screws that held the original hinges in place. I knew this would be a very challenging piece to refinish because of the many components and my favorite pet peeve, spindles.

The drawer was removable, which was great because it's much

Writing Desk After

easier to strip and sand a section of an item if it can be removed. Upon further inspection, I discovered that the cubby insert section was also removable, held in place by side boards that slid out, allowing the entire cutty section to be removed. This was a great bonus since it was quite difficult to reach in there to strip the old stain, mostly because I couldn't really see what I was doing. By removing it, I was able to strip it and see all the way to the back so it was done right. Once the removable components were stripped, I began the long, tedious task of stripping the spindles. They are the most difficult and time consuming part of any stripping project because there is simply no fast way to do it.