Couch and Chair Cushion Renewal

Chair Before

Chair After

This is one of a two-piece set of wicker furniture that received updated cushions with a plush, blue material selected by the customer who also supplied the photos.* She had wanted an updated, modernized appearance for these well worn and loved cushions and chose a lovely color to suit the new appearance. 

The chair matched the wicker couch (photo below). For each cushion I used the original pattern and created the new cushion covers. Since the foam was in usable condition, we decided to keep it instead of replacing it.

There were a total of eight cushions, four smaller for the backrest and four larger from the seats. These cushions were the same 23" width, just the depth was longer for the seats, which were 37-1/2" deep compared to the 20" depth (or height) for the backrests. 

For this job the cushions were a different variety from previous cushions I have made, because they had a "fold-over" style, instead of traditional "boxing." Simply put, this means that the top and bottom are made from one continuous piece of fabric, "folded over," instead of there being two separate top and bottom sections and stitching them to the boxing.

Couch Before

Actually, this style of cushion is much easier to insert the foam into, due to the longer, "overlapping edges" zipper, which creates a larger opening so the foam can be easily slipped into it. Sometimes it is necessary to wrap the foam in a very soft plastic material known as "silk film," which is used in the furniture industry for exactly this purpose. It reduces the friction between the foam and the slipcover that goes over it. 

This process involves wrapping the foam completely with the film and then using a vacuum to shrink the foam by sucking the air from the exterior which then reduces the size of the foam so it easier to insert it into the narrow zippered opening of the outer covering. By making the foam smaller, you have an easier time fitting it into these smaller openings. Although this can certainly be done without using the silk film ( I've done it!), it's easier to use it than not.

In some ways these cushions were easier to construct, once I figured out exactly how the construction was done. I lined up my large outer [top and bottom] material by nothing the centers, then matching up those centers with the zipper panel (a separate piece). After that was accomplished, I knew my corners would line up.

Couch After

 

Once the zipper panel was stitched into place, I attached the side panel boxing, also aligning it with a notched top that matched the outer cover. This system worked well as all the edges were then lined up as they should be. A little ingenuity, patience and time gets the job done.

(Photos were supplied by customer).

Antique Dresser Freshly Painted "In The Navy" Blue - for Sale!

Dresser After Painting
FOR SALE!

Dresser Before

What you see here is an original antique oak dresser that has been completely modernized with paint, but retaining its original look by reusing the hardware. The frills on the door fronts were removed for a streamlined, clean look. 

First it was stripped, sanded and then painted in a lovely dark shade called "In The Navy." Jim chose to paint this dresser with chalk paint, which requires a finishing treatment of waxing upon completion of painting. The was protects the paint and makes it strong and durable and easy to take care of as it provides a hard finish to the paint, protecting the wood. We've used wax paint on several projects and they always look terrific.

The original hardware was brass, so he cleaned and polished it, making it pop on the newly painted color. The interior drawers were stained and the bottom compartments behind the doors was painted in a light color. Although its primary function was a dresser, this lovely renovated piece of furniture can also be used as a buffet since it has plenty of storage for silverware and plates below and behind the doors. If you wanted a coffee bar, it could be used for that as well. And of course, its original use as a dresser will still suffice. 

This piece is currently for sale. Asking price is $425.00, so please get it touch with us if you are interested!

Updated 1980’s Dining Room Set

Dining Chair After

Dining Chair Before

A simple, yet functional dining room set made well never goes out of style, but the fabric sure does. My customer had wanted an updated look for her 1980’s style dining set and decided to go lighter. Sometimes this isn’t possible, depending on the wood, but in this case it was achievable. 

The four chairs all had rollers, which had to be removed prior to stripping. Once Jim had stripped everything, chairs and table alike, he began carefully sanding all surfaces and applied the new stain, golden pecan. This gave it a perfectly suitable color for the customer, lighter and updated. 

Originally she had not wanted to replace the fabric (based on budget) but once the staining and finishing was done, I thought I’d suggest she splurge and get the fabric updated as well and because I had given her a great price she agreed. I provided her with resources for the fabric and she chose a gorgeous Hillary Farr Design with an aqua chevron nap. It was the perfect accompaniment for the newly stained lighter wood. Had she not chosen new fabric, the old fabric would have been okay, but without the feel and touch of fresh new fabric. I probably would have chosen the same fabric since I am a fan of that color!

Dining Set After

Dining Set Before

The table had some damage due to her husband’s wheel chair, which Jim was able to sand out and make invisible. Magic happens when you sand furniture. You remove the old and expose the beauty buried beneath the years and grime. The table was solid wood, always a great thing to work on. 

When they say, “They just don’t make ‘em like they used to,” furniture would be a prime example of the truth of that statement. Not to say you can’t get that same quality, but the cost is much higher by comparison. But if you have that special piece of furniture that belonged to a grandparent or great-grandparent many times over, you  have a priceless piece of history that is worth keeping and definitely worth restoring.

Motor Coach Bench Upholstery

Bench After
New Fabric

Bench Before
New Fabric

This summer I added sailboat cushions and patio furniture cushions to my collection of upholstery work. I also reupholstered a bench seat and back cushions for a motor coach as well as all new window valances for same motor coach. 

My customer had wanted an updated look for the early 2000’s motor coach and chose a lovely blue material with a denim style and feel. She loved blue, so blue was what she chose. The fabric was a dream to work with and durable enough to sustain a lot of wear. It will stand up to many glamping trips for years to come.

The original cushioned back was fluted, but she wanted one single cushion instead of separate fluted sections. The foam required for this cushions was six inch foam to adequately fill the space. This involved removing the cushions, backing and the top and front “L” shaped trim pieces. The rest of the motor coach also were given updated window treatments to match the seating, therefore many individual pieces required to be stripped of all old fabric, update the worn foam valance sections and replace with the new blue fabric. Everything had to be carefully planned out and marked to assure each piece would be reassembled into the same spot. This was an organized way to tackle this project. The more pieces, the better you have to keep track of which one goes where!

I installed a new zipper into each cushion, since the old zippers were metal and too small for these large cushions. I prefer the newer continuous zippers which can be cut to any size, making the fit of the cushions back into their new covers much easier. If it can taken apart, it can be put back together. This applies to pretty much anything with upholstery work.

Rocking Chair Gets New Cushion

Chair w/new cushion

 

Chair w/old cushion

My only “fix” for this rocking chair was to overhaul the seat. The seat was original with springs that were attached to a very old frame which was coming apart. The springs were rusty, but still in good condition. After I removed the nasty fabric (you could see the springs popping through), there were two more layers of fabrics beneath it. 

The original fabric was a well-worn floral fabric and another layer of flowers was between the green outer fabric and the last one. All that fabric didn’t make the chair any more comfortable because the springs were literally visible through all layers. There was a scrap of burlap in there somewhere and the stuffing/batting was stuck inside the springs and weren’t really performing anymore. 

This seat needed a LOT of old fabric removal before anything could be done. At first I wasn’t sure how I’d secure those springs because the framework was made out of metal, with wood only on the bottom. 

After doing the eight-way tie on the springs, I realized that by securing the springs’ sides and centers to the wood frame would not only keep them from moving, it would also make the framework somewhat level. I didn’t do that in the photo shown, so you can see how the framework dips in the center. Once I had secured the entire perimeter, the springs were level. It worked great!

After the springs were taken care of, they were completely covered with burlap and secured to the bottom all around with staples. (I love my pneumatic stapler!) The next step was adding foam to the sides so that the foam pushed against the springs, thus protecting the sides from puncture and adding more "bounce.” 

Next, I added two layers of batting, one front to back and the second one left to right. I had left the sides open on the top layer so I can push the stuffing into it, bringing the cushion to a nice crown. Then I added two layers of muslin, with a very high thread count so that it’s super durable and makes a great base for the final layer, the outer fabric, which was a nice thin-striped ticking in a white with light tan, a great choice for this chair. The last step is painting it white, but my customer will take care of that. Some people like the “distressed” look, but for this chair we agreed that painting it white would look great with that crisp new fabric. I love the way this chair cushion turned out.

Sofa Gets Six New Box Cushions

Updated, New Foam w/Tweed Fabric

Outdated Fabric,
Saggy Cushion

If you’ve lived through the 1970’s, you’ll likely have owned or knew someone who owned a sofa with fabric that looked similar to the one on the left. I refer to this as “Brady Bunch” fabric, the popular rust, tan and brown used on the show along with bright orange, green and yellow tones. My parents had a similar style sofa and chair in their living room, but with more green and a smaller plaid than this one. Since the 1970’s, fabrics have changed and we have so many more options in the twenty-first century than we did in the 1970’s. The sofa had a total of six cushions, three seat and three accompanying back cushions.

The original covers had a center seam style with a single row of piping which surrounded the top and bottom seat, along with a rear metal zipper. Modern box cushions are constructed with a top, a bottom and a center “boxing” which includes a zipper placket. The best technique to make these box cushions is to measure the size of the foam and allow at least 5/8” seam allowance for each side. These cushions needed new foam which was 6”, so it was necessary to allow a 7-1/2” zipper placket and a 6-1/2” surround, which is sewn to the completed placket. If all seams are sewn properly and accurately, both fabric sections should line up for a nice, even continuous side boxing. 

For these cushions, it was easier to make the top and bottom portions, adding the piping to each one, then stitching the zipper placket in place using clips, which are easy to move when you’re fitting the placket to the top and bottom fabric. A piping foot is an essential tool for this project. Piping (also known as welting or cording) is comprised of a tightly wrapped polyester cord commonly used in upholstery projects as an insert, for a customized, decorative edge. In apparel, it can be used as a décor item or trim. Piping comes in various thicknesses for different applications. 

These were six loose cushions used on a wood-framed sofa. The foam itself had severely deteriorated (as 50 year old foam will) and was crumbling inside the fabric, leaving a fine, yellow powdery residue. Surprisingly the fabric was not torn or damaged, but was very loose and saggy, due to the cushion no longer holding its shape as a result of shrunken, deteriorated foam. Therefore six new foam cushions was a must, as well as new fabric. If you’re going to invest in new fabric, it’s recommended to get new foam to get the maximum comfort and longest wear. However, if your cushions are still in good shape, they can be used with new fabric. All new foam is then wrapped in Dacron for a nice crown and better shaping.

The customer chose a lovely gray tweed interspersed with off white, nicely woven into the gray. The color combination was great and the fabric was easy to work with, despite it being relatively heavy upholstery material. The stitches were practically invisible (always a bonus) therefore the cushions came together beautifully. They should last many years and provide comfort and support to all who sit on them. 

Art Deco Vanity Better Than New

 

Vanity after w/o mirror

Vanity Before without mirror

Jim picked up this old vanity from the 1930’s, "art deco style," at an antique shop in Port Huron. It’s got the classic curvy waterfall style as we commonly see in cedar chests. It had five drawers but only four drawer pulls. I had envisioned something completely different, a
refreshing update, so I opted for paint. I chose Sherwin-Williams “Cotton White,” which is one of my favorite off-white colors. This painting preserved the antique look, but with an updated, twenty-first century functionality.

Vanity painted with mirror

Of course, as with every wood project, it’s essential to use a good primer so that the paint will adhere as it should. I actually used two coats of primer for the vanity and mirror. When Jim brought the vanity and mirror home, they were detached, so I had to take the photos separately since we didn’t put it together just for photos. Mirrors are super hard to photograph because they reflect whatever is opposite them, therefore I used a white sheet to block out the basement background (my workspace) but you get the idea. 

The mirror had some really cool design features. At the top there was an inverted curve of wood that had a carved flower motif in the center. That piece of wood, along with two metal brackets, held the mirror in place. 

To prepare the mirror for painting, I removed the mirror by removing the decorative piece of wood along with the mirror brackets, set them aside to be painted a different color. I sanded and primed the mirror and painted it to match the vanity. The bottom of the mirror had a decorative piece of wood that mimicked the front legs with an inverted curve. Both top and bottom wood accents were painted silver glitter. I opted to hand paint the flower in the center of the top mirror wood insert and it was the perfect little touch of glam. I painted the center drawer a bright tangerine and lemon yellow for the rest of the side drawers. I lined the bottom of the drawers with a super sparkly silver drawer liner. It was that perfect special touch that adds a bit of bling.

Once everything was done and the paint had dried sufficiently, Jim installed the new nickel drawer pulls which were the perfect finishing touch to this spectacular old piece of furniture.

Drawer liner center drawer

         

        Drawer liners

   

New nickel hardware

China Cabinet Transforms to Coffee Station

China Cabinet Before 

New Self-Serve Coffee Bar

This is another example of how to redefine what an item of furniture can become by employing a few creative elements, a dash of imagination and a coat of paint. This was a 1980’s era China cabinet which held a collection of, well, China. It likely housed glasses, knick-knacks and crystal. But my daughter had wanted this cabinet to be used at “Roasted” in downtown Marine City’s Water Street as a self-serve coffee station to replace the old coffee bar during the store’s recent design upgrades and painting.

Her vision was to remove the top doors and paint the entire cabinet, then add wood to the interior to match the paneled wood in the restaurant’s bottom portion of the wall that complements the new paint color. She got the idea on Pinterest, but Jim was able to modify the original design to fit the needs of the coffee shop and size of this general cabinet.

He removed the top glass doors (as they were no longer being used) and lined the interior with the same wood panels to match the theme of the newly decorated coffee shop. Jim removed the original front bottom door panels and replaced them with the same panels as the interior. He built a raised platform so the coffee station would be ergonomically sufficient. This also created storage directly beneath for napkins, sugar, stir sticks, etc. The bottom portion would hold coffee cups and other supplies easily reachable but hidden behind the newly fashioned doors. The final updated cabinet was stunning. A ship’s wheel clock was the perfect design element that perfectly tied in with the coffee shop’s new theme and matched the new coffee station perfectly. You can see the cabinet at “Roasted,” which is located at 218 S. Water Street, Marine City, Michigan.

Bench Gets White Chalk Paint

Bench Before Paint

A bench such as this one provides a great place to sit practically anywhere in your  home. But like with many pieces of furniture, after a while you tend to overlook this well-loved item. You may feel a bit guilty because you still love it, but know it needs that special something. In this case, the bench was destined to be a brand new look, which was accomplished by applying Annie Sloan's "Old White" chalk paint and finished with Annie Sloan's clear wax to seal it.

Bench After Paint

By its nature, this bench was a very labor intensive item to work on because of the amount of surface area, and of course, the spindles, which are difficult to paint. Spindles are my least favorite aspect of any furniture painting, restoration or refinishing job because they are, well, spindles. (Don't get me started!)

Chalk paint doesn't require a great deal of sanding or other prep work commonly needed to guarantee a greatly finished painted product, but I chose to lightly sand the entire bench anyway because that's just how I roll. Call it a pet peeve, but I feel that a little bit of sanding is better than no sanding.

I chose to brush the paint instead of spraying because I feel that you still get better coverage and a thicker, richer end product with brushing and for this piece of furniture, it worked quite well. That's another benefit of chalk paint; you don't see the brush strokes as it dries very smooth. The Old White paint was a light and bright color which literally changed the personality of this bench from outdated to outstanding. I added the customized stencil flower for a little something extra and it looked great. This bench received clear wax only so it will be protected from scratches and will be easy to care for.

Couch Table Chalk Painted

Couch Table Before Painting

This [behind the] couch table was the second project I painted using "Annie Sloan's" chalk paint and wax system. As in the Queen Anne Table in the blog post below, I used Annie Sloan's French Linen chalk paint.

I gave this table a shabby chic "distressing" by

Couch Table After Painting

scraping away the paint randomly with steel wool and a folded scrap of 100 grit sandpaper. After the paint had dried, I finished the table with generous coat of Annie Sloan's clear wax, then highlighted the border detail with Annie Sloan's black wax which brought out the border detail along the edge of the table top.

Once the wax had dried 24 hours later, I was able to lightly buff the table until it had a smooth finish which will be easy to maintain and provide a lovely, durable piece of furniture for many years.

Queen Anne Table Chalk Painted

Queen Anne Table Before

This was a lovely Queen Anne table in need of a new look and it was decided that paint would achieve this nicely.

Queen Anne Table After

Chalk paint is great to work with. The first coat shows the brush strokes, but this goes away after you paint the second coat giving you great coverage. It also dries very quickly, in 20 minutes so you can easily finish a project from start to finish the same day. Chalk paint has unique qualities and those qualities allow you to experiment with finishes, such as waxing. Prior to this project I had not heard of chalk paint waxing, but I was willing to give it a try.

Waterfall Nightstand

Waterfall Nightstand Before

This adorable nightstand was the last piece of the waterfall collection of furniture which completed the bedroom set we refinished and restored. Unlike the art deco nightstand, this one was lightweight, with gorgeous woodgrain hiding beneath the watermarks and rings on the top and a few minor scratches on the sides. But it had great bones, so to do it justice, needed carefully detailed stripping. Because of the curved edge in the waterfall furniture style, refinishing is time consuming work, but well

Waterfall Nightstand After

worth it.

The grooves on the outer edges of this piece was where the old stain accumulated once stripper was applied so I used a wood carving tool and carefully scraped out all the extra gunk (that's what I call it!) This made it easier to sand and ultimately stain with the golden pecan stain I selected to match the other furniture in this set, which was a set of dressers a headboard and footboard.

This nightstand was my favorite piece because it was cute and tiny, thus easier to handle than the larger furniture items. I could pick it up and place it on my work table (saving my back in the process) so I could get a better look at the work that it required.