Mid Century End Table and Nightstands

Mid-Century Modern End Table Before

The desire for restoring mid-century modern furniture is quickly

Mid-Century Modern End Table After

on the rise with for people who enjoy quality furniture with the craftsmanship style popular 1940's and 1950's. This table had great form, was very sturdy and well structured,

Eastlake Dresser Makeover

1900's Eastlake Dresser

This lovely Eastlake mahogany dresser dates back to the early 1900's. While it's nearly impossible to trace its origins, it's not too hard to figure out that this piece is made of high quality mahogany with beautiful raised panels of rosewood which complements the reddish tone of the mahogany. (Unfortunately, I can't find the "before" photo for this dresser, or I would have put it in this blog post. )

We purchased this dresser at Materials Unlimited, in Ypsilanti. It was down in the basement in the farthest corner, behind some tall old boards. We almost overlooked it with all the clutter in front of it.

It was a miracle that this dresser hadn't fallen completely apart, considering the extent of damage it had withstood over a century. I can assure you, it didn't look like this when Jim pulled it away from the basement wall. It had broken sides, drawers and a cracked back. It required a lot of restructuring and elbow grease before it could be refinished, but it was well worth it.

It is easy for a trained eye to spot quality furniture, but with these five easy guidelines, anyone can do it. Here a few pointers to look for when deciding whether or not to have an item of furniture restored and reasons why restoration is a good choice.

1. How are the bones? A good "bone" structure with minor damage is worth refinishing. If the piece is damaged to the point where there is more replacement wood than original wood, while still usable, it may not as valuable. Check for major cracks or deep scratches on the larger sections of a piece of furniture, as these may affect the amount of work required to bring it back to life.

Dining Room Table

Duncan Phyfe Dining Table

A large dining room table is one of the most challenging of all furniture restoration jobs, due to the sheer size of the project. Tables are large, heavy and difficult to transport, not to mention all that surface takes a while to strip, sand and refinish. That's why tables are amongst the highest price items when it comes to refinishing cost, but personally, I still prefer a large table to a set of chairs with spindles! Don't get me started on spindles. They're lovely, indeed, but they require a LOT of patience and time.

This lovely mahogany dining room table was quite large to begin with, plus it had two 12" leaves that also needed refinishing. This table had a few surface scratches, luckily they weren't too deep so I was able to sand them away, leaving the table's surface as good as new and ready to accept the stain, for which I chose mahogany, to match the wood. Once restored to its former beauty, this table took its place in the dining room, ready to serve up many family meals for years to come.

Tea Cart Repair

Tea Cart Before

Tea Cart After

This lovely antique tea cart was in need of a broken wheel repair along with refinishing the lower shelf which had seen its share of scratches and wear. Evidently a caretaker who takes care of the owner's ninety-one year old mother had somehow tipped over the cart, breaking the wheel into several pieces.

Made of maple, this tea cart had a gorgeous finish, which I strived hard to maintain while refinishing it. The wheel, however, was a bit of a challenge as it needed to be completely rebuilt.

Using a section of wood that looked close to the original wheel, we were able to make a template of the unbroken wheel, then cut out a brand new one with a scroll saw. The outside of the wheel had to be carved out with a lathe, so that the rubber gasket could be wrapped around it as it had been originally. The finished, repaired tea cart was as good as new and ready to be used for another one hundred plus years.

Antique Buffet Pretty Once More

Buffet Before Refinish

Buffet After Refinish

A friend of the family had this lovely red oak buffet in her family for generations and spent the summer sanding it down to bare wood, but when it got down to the nitty gritty, she threw up her hands and asked me if I would finish it for her by stripping the details around the medallion and all the tiny areas she was unable to reach with her sander. I told her I'd be happy to do this and once she delivered it, I got right to it. After doing the detailing in the fluted sides and inner corner edges, I gave it a final sanding and used golden pecan stain for the finish with two coats of polyurethane to protect the wood. I decided to add a third coat of polyurethane on the top only, since that gets the most amount of use. 

Once the staining was complete, I tackled the brass pulls, ten of them. I spent approximately seven hours polishing them until the looked like new. When possible, I like to use original hardware as it fits the period of the furniture item. These were indeed gorgeous and looked like the day they were made when I was done with them. I've done buffets similar to this one, but the character of every piece is unique and it always surprises me when I stand back and look at the "before" and "after" photos and think, "I did that!" It's truly rewarding in a way that only someone who loves old furniture can appreciate.

Pulls and Hinges Before Polishing

Pulls and Hinges After Polishing

Watertown Slide Table Era 1889-1910

Cherry Table Before

Cherry Table After

In this business you never quite know what type of project you will recieve. This was one of those projects which came with a few surprises. What you see in the left photo is a table with a hidden agenda, it extends to about ten feet and can accommodate between 3-4 leaves which makes it a huge table! Unfortunately, my customers had purchased this table without any leaves and decided to use it as is. The slide mechanism was made by the Watertown Slide Company located in Watertown, Wisconsin. Judging by the style and materials used in the table, I estimate it to be made between 1889-1910, but likely is was made in the early 1900's. (This company only made the slide mechanism for the leaves of the table, not the table itself.)

Antique Desk Cabinet

Cabinet Before

This lovely old cabinet came to us in less than perfect condition. It had seen a lot of use over the years, judging by the scratches and wear, however, we were able to detect the high quality of the wood (tiger oak) and the overall structure of the piece and knew we would be able to breathe new life

into it making it shine again. 

Cabinet After

We determined that this cabinet once had a large door, likely glass, which had opened on left side where the shelves were located, but the owner no longer had the door and didn't mind not having one. The cabinet had only three of the four original wheels. Luckily we had the same style of wheels leftover from a previous job, so we were able to add the fourth wheel, making this piece much easier to move around. (It's a good idea to save hardware!)

Antique Vanity and Mirror Makeover

Vanity Before

Vanity After

We picked up this vanity at a yard sale in Algonac on one of our numerous camping trips there this summer. It had all the original pieces and hardware. All it needed was some good old-fashioned hard work. Total refinishing. Lots of labor and love. That's truly the only way to give an old beauty such as this another chance at life. My personal pet peeve is restoring spindle legs. They require a LOT of work and time in addition to detailing. This one had four spindle legs in front and four square legs in the back. Needless to say, I spent a great deal of time on the legs. The center drawer had a lovely scroll design, which was likely carved by hand sometime in the 1940s. (It also has a gorgeous mirror, which I'll add to this post one we complete it.) The legs had metal wheels, which proved to be wonderful as I was working on it.

Mid-Century Hutch Modernized

Hutch Original

Hutch Modernized

This lovely hutch came to us from a young couple who had wanted to modernize it. It had belonged to her grandmother and had seen a lot of use, so naturally she had wanted to put it to use in her home. She had asked if it could be painted, but wasn't sure what color paint. 

I suggested black, but she thought that was too dark. I then suggested navy blue, since we had previously painted a China cabinet and buffet in navy blue (See the "Furniture Gets Naval Theme" article on this blog: http://finalefurniture.blogspot.com/2014/02/furniture-gets-naval-theme.html). She loved the blue color idea, so I pulled out the Sherwin-Williams color swatches and she chose SW-6510, Loyal Blue.

The first step in any painted job is to rough up the old polyurethane gloss surface so that it accepts the primer. If you fail to do this, the primer won't stick and neither will the paint, eventually peeling off. Once you have prepared the surface, you're ready to paint. The color turned out beautiful! The customer chose new hardware, nickel handles and hinges and porcelain (kitty cat) door pulls. Modernized and a fresh new look, this old hutch is ready to create many more memories for years to come. Don't be afraid of color!

Bombay Chest Makeover

Bombay Chest Before Veneer

Bombay Chest After Veneer

Earlier this year, Jim had removed the years of grime from this Bombay chest and prepared it for my client who happened to live around the block from us. She wanted to paint the chest and all she wanted us to do is get it prepared for paint. After she picked it up, she said she'd send a photo of the painted chest.

Fast forward two months, she contacted me again. The top was cracked and she didn't want to paint it, because she was worried that the cracks would eventually split the entire surface, so she opted for a new veneer that she would stain, then paint the rest of the chest. She supplied the oak veneer, which looked like the original oak. Amy and I worked together on the veneer. I applied two coats of contact cement to the underside of the veneer and one coat to the chest top. Once the cement was dried, we carefully picked up the veneer and began to align it to the surface of the chest. I was glad for her offer to help since it's much easier to do with four hands, to properly align the veneer into position before it makes final contact. Once it makes contact, that's it. You don't have a chance to reposition it. (That's why it's called contact cement!) 

Once we had it centered, we lowered it, and BOOM! It stuck. Oops! Unfortunately, the veneer didn't quite line up with the edge of the chest top, so I had to act quickly to remove it, so we could try again. I grabbed my heat gun, plugged it in and quickly aimed it at the sticky area while Amy pulled the veneer upward. Slowly, but surely, the contact cement released and we were able to carefully lower the veneer into the correct position, covering the entire surface of the chest with enough overlap to trim. The process was a bit nerve-wracking, but the end result was a brand new veneer surface, that looked like the original surface had looked many years ago.

Antique Vanity Makeover

Vanity Before

Vanity After

This vanity had been in my customer's  in-law's family for a few generations. Neglect and time took its toll on this lovely vanity as the scratched surface attested to. However, I assured my customer I would make it shine and indeed, I did. The first step was to remove the hardware then get it ready for sanding and stripping, which was immensely tedious because the sides have a fluted rounded edge which required a metal brush to remove all the previous finishes, all part of the stripping process. 

Birch Wine Bar

Bar Before

Bar After

This simple bar was quite the challenge! Made of solid birch, this bar was in my customer's family since the mid-1960s. We received it in the condition it had been for over 50 years, painted white, with more than its share of scratches. Old hardware dated this piece, so we had our work cut out for us. 

You never truly know how much work a piece is going to be until you get into the "bones" of it. Stripping this small bar was deceptively difficult for a few reasons; there was a lot of surface area and the raised panel details as well as the legs and inside was an enormous task. The interior glass holders each took close to two hours to strip. When you strip painted surfaces and plan on staining them, it's necessary to remove every speck of paint. If you don't, the stain will not be able to soak into the wood as those tiny paint specks remain and stick out like the proverbial sore thumb.