Waterfall Headboard and Footboard

Waterfall Headboard Before

Although getting the "before" photos of this headboard was a bit tricky because of where it was located at the time, it shows enough to see the wear and scratching that had happened over the many years of being used.

Waterfall Headboard After

This headboard matched the waterfall dressers and nightstand in this bedroom set with matching "V" shaped veneer in the center and decorative wood panels that were set in on each side. A rather large piece, this headboard required refinishing on both the inside and the outside to do it justice. It required many hours of stripping and then sanding, using various grits of sandpaper to best prepare the newly exposed surface for stain.

As in the other items of furniture, I close golden pecan stain to replicate the original color and bring out the luster and gleam of the wood beneath. The results were awesome! Furniture of this era is well worth preserving and holding onto because as they say, "they just don't make them like they used to!"

Waterfall Footboard Before

The footboard had the actual waterfall feature, the curved top, and required a lot more preparation than the headboard because it had water damage on the interior side and some broken veneer here and there. Using a hot, dry iron, I was able to heat up the original glue and flatten the lifted, curling veneer enough so that it lay flat.

For the rest of the veneer that didn't want to flatten out, I carefully applied wood glue through a wood syringe (which allows you to tuck the glue into small places), and used many clamps to secure the veneer until the next day, when I was able to remove them and proceed with the stripping and sanding. Using an iron is also how you would completely removed old, damaged veneer by keeping the iron on the wood and moving it slowly while you follow it with a sharp putty knife and lift the old veneer off. It works well, but requires patience and attention to detail.

Waterfall Footboard After

The footboard, like the dressers, took a long time to refinish, but it looked fabulous when it was done.

Waterfall Dressers

Waterfall Dresser Before

One of my favorite furniture styles is from the 1940 era, such as this gorgeous waterfall style dresser. It's named waterfall because the top edge is curved, gently sloping downward in a graceful, flowing style unique to that era.

Many types of furniture featured the waterfall style; cedar chests, tall and low dressers, vanities and footboards. This dresser was one of two dressers in the second bedroom set I had restored. The tall dresser has five drawers, but identical handles, which were still in perfect condition.

But the same thing I love about this style makes it the most

Waterfall Dresser After

challenging to refinish because stripping and sanding that sloping curve so that you are able to expose the bare wood evenly takes patience, time and dedication. This is not something that can be rushed. It has to be done slow to do it right. It also has to be done by hand. It takes longer, but it's worth it as the finished results speak for themselves.

Tall Dresser Before

The tall dresser had a decorative top panel which was attached to the back. We removed this piece so it too could be stripped and refinished separately from the dresser.

The five drawers each had their own personality and

Tall Dresser After

looked different from one another because of the way the veneer was put on the front of the drawers. They were also tricky to put in the correct drawer slots, likely custom fit at the time the dresser was made.

Once the stripping and sanding was complete, we used golden pecan stain, which brought the natural beauty out for these lovely vintage dressers, adding a rich, deep tone in the wood that was hidden beneath years of oxidation and dust. Now these dresser can live on to be used for the next generation for many years to come.

Art Deco Footboard and Headboard

Art Deco Footboard Before

Unfortunately I didn't get the opportunity to take a "before"photo of the headboard and footboard of the art deco bedroom set, so I used the original photo my customer had sent me (left).

The footboard and headboard had extensive veneer damage and required large sections of veneer to be replaced. This was accomplished by using a hot (no steam) iron and removing the old veneer, then sanding the surfaces so they were smooth enough to accept the adhesive prior to dry fitting the veneer in place.

For the headboard and footboard we used two different veneer styles; oak and mahogany, but stained them both with cherry. This gave the piece a beautiful look with contrasting finishes that completed one another, similar to the original style. I love the way the richness of the wood comes through with using these two excellent quality of veneer products!

Once the veneer was cut a bit larger than the surfaces that they would be adhered to, we carefully laid them in place. Then the stripping, sanding and refinishing could be done easily. After final sanding with fine grit sandpaper, we applied cherry stain and two coats of semi-gloss polyurethane. The headboard and footboard turned out great! Luckily I was able to get an "after" photo of the footboard, seen below.

Art Deco Footboard After Refinishing

Check out the other items of this bedroom set by clicking on the links below:
Art Deco Nightstand
Art Deco Vanity
Art Deco Dresser

Art Deco Nightstand

Art Deco Nightstand Before

This art deco nightstand matches the dresser and vanity as part of an

Art Deco Nightstand After

art deco bedroom set restoration. This vanity had broken veneer on the top left and bottom left panels as well as noticeable amount of water damage.

To do this right, we removed the handles, drawer and door (as in the dresser) and replaced the broken veneer sections with new matching veneer, then continued the process of stripping, sanding and staining, using cherry stain and three coats of semi-gloss polyurethane to match the other two pieces in the set.

The lower portion of this nightstand opened like a door and had a single shelf on the inside which was just a piece of cardboard laid on top of two flimsy strips of wood that weren't original to the cabinet. We made a new shelf stained it to match and nailed it to the wood strips; much stronger than cardboard and allowing more options for storage on the bottom of this nightstand.

Art Deco Vanity

Art Deco Vanity Before Refinishing

Art Deco Vanity After Refinishing

This was the second item in the art deco bedroom set we refinished. It matched the art deco dresser,  with the same wood and matching handles. It too was made of cherry. This vanity had two sections of damaged veneer; upper right front panel and lower left, beneath the drawer. It's possible to patch small sections of broken veneer, but other times it must be replaced, as it was here. The process of removing old veneer doesn't involve any special skills or tools, just a hot (no steam) iron, a pressing cloth and patience. The iron heats up the old veneer just enough to warm up the old adhesive so you can easily slide a putty knife between the veneer and wood beneath, gently lifting it off until it's removed. This was the process I used to replace the veneer on this lovely vanity. Once the old veneer was completely removed, I glued the new veneer in place, then used a sharp utility knife to remove the excess, then my mini dremel to smooth the edges.

Art Deco Dresser

Art Deco Dresser Before

Art Deco Dresser After

This lovely art deco dresser was one item of a complete bedroom set with other art deco items. This dresser is a classic example of timeless beauty with clean lines and elegant design. Made of lovely cherry, this dresser had a great, solid structure and plenty of use left, albeit a bit worn around the edges. It needed a good, solid comeback and had been crying for a total restoration. But no restoration is easy. This dresser required a lot of attention to details.

First we removed the hardware (which would later be cleaned and polished by hand) and the drawers, some of which had bottoms that weren't completely attached. A few nails in the exact center of the support board in the back of these drawers reinforced the bottoms, so they were once again strong enough for perfect functionality. Each drawer was then completely stripped, sanded and stained with cherry stain, then put aside while we did the same work on the body of the dresser. The stain brought out the beauty of the wood's grain, always my favorite part of any restoration.

Handles before and after

Measuring at 52" tall, this dresser offered plenty of storage with deep drawers and a solid body. The bottom decorative rail had been loose and fell off during the pick up drive, therefore it wasn't show in the "before" photo, but we glued and nailed it back after refinishing it as well. After applying two coats of semi-gloss polyurethane, this deco beauty was once again the star of the show. The handles had been polished and after they were reinstalled, added the "bling" which was the perfect touch in another great refinishing job.

Dining Table Top Refinished

Table Top Before

Table Top After

We all know how much we use our tables, therefore the top of them tends to get plenty of use, which is okay, because that's what they're for. This solid oak table was purchased twenty-five years ago and got plenty of use, so the top had some wear on it. Nothing too bad, but enough to justify a refinish, top only. It also had two leaves, so the owner wanted those refinished as well.

This great table was made by the Amish and the quality of the workmanship showed. Amish are known for their precision and attention to details as well as simplicity in structure so their furniture is easy to use and guaranteed to last a long time. The woodgrain of this table was beautiful, which became apparent after I totally stripped the top.

I kept the leaves on the table and stripped them in place (much easier) and made sure the sides of the

Caned Parlor Chair

Caned Chair Before

Caned Chair After

This little parlor chair had broken cane on the seat, but was otherwise in good condition, albeit a bit scratched up. I had never done caning, but I knew that with a little research, the right tools and a bit of determination I could figure it out, so I began reading about caning and found plenty of videos on YouTube and other "how tos" in various sites on the world wide web.

The concept was simple enough. First step is to remove the spline, then pull out the damaged caning. Once that is removed, you chisel away any remaining glue and debris and clean out the spine groove so that the new spline can be installed. Since the spline comes in various sizes, you need to know what size it is before you purchase new spline, otherwise it may not fit. I didn't realize there were so many sizes!

Solid Cedar Chest with Copper Accents

Cedar Chest Finished

I've refinished many cedar chests since I began working on furniture, but I don't often get cedar chests that are solid cedar. This is actually my second cedar chest. Take a look at my first one by clicking on the link below: (http://finalefurniture.blogspot.com/2014/10/solid-cedar-chest.html).

Like the first cedar chest, this one had no veneer and was made of solid cedar, although it was a bit larger than the first one. It also had a unique feature, two copper straps on each side, attached with furniture tacks. The copper had been quite tarnished, a natural process which happens over aging, therefore it needed its own restoration.

Cedar Chest Before

To clean the copper straps the proper way, I carefully removed them by using my vice grips and pulling off the tacks that held the straps in place. (Unfortunately eight of the original tacks snapped when I removed them and couldn't be salvaged). There were two long straps on the top and two shorter straps that continued down the front. I cleaned them individually, using copper cleaner, a toothbrush, a wire brush and a lot of elbow grease.

Left Strap Before

Eventually I removed the tarnish to reveal the beautiful original copper hidden beneath it. For the tacks, I used my handy dandy wire brush which is attached to my bench grinder and cleaned them up enough to paint them black, (making a mental note to look for new ones to replace the ones that had broken).

Like all my other stripping projects, I used a strong chemical stripper to remove the old finish on the chest, liberally applying it and using a metal putty knife to scrape away the messy brown goo and swiping it into an empty plastic container. I find this to be the most effective way to get rid of the first layer of

Left Strap After

old finish, then follow up with as many applications as needed to remove as much residue as possible.

Right Strap Before

Working with solid wood is so much easier than veneer, because one, it is easier to strip and two, it looks amazing when you get to the bare wood hidden beneath all that dull old grime. After the surface is no longer sticky with residue, I used steel wool dipped in acetone to remove any remaining chemicals before sanding. I always start out with a 100-150 grit sandpaper, eventually working up to a 220 grit, which gives the wood a smooth surface which will better accept the stain. After the sanding was complete, I wiped it down with a rag dipped in acetone or laquer thinner and it was ready for stain, my favorite part! This cedar chest didn't need stain, so I left it natural, but applied three coats of semi-gloss polyurethane to protect the surface.

Quick Tip: don't skimp on brushes when applying polyurethane! A cheap brush will not give you the quality and look your furniture deserves. Use a good brush with thick bristles and keep it clean between uses by soaking it in acetone and wrapping it in a paper towel. This will prolong your brush for many applications.

One of the rear legs was split in two, so I removed all the legs and refinished them each separately. The wheels had to come off, so Jim cut them with a bandsaw because they were impossible to pull out. The split wheel was attached with a "molly bolt," which expanded into the pre-drilled hole, making it impossible to remove without further

Right Strap After

damaging the leg. They too were made of cedar. I glued the broken leg back together, clamped it with my bench vice and screwed it securely back into the cedar chest after it was refinished.

Reassembling the individually restored components of any furniture project is always my favorite part, this one being no exception. The shiny, clean copper straps added a special feature to this old trunk and the painted black tacks gave it character. Luckily I was able to locate the exact same tacks at my local hardware store! They were called "furniture tacks," which are different from household tacks because they have a longer tack point and a rounded head.

Working on this cedar chest was quite satisfying, because hidden under years of old finish and scratches, was a gorgeous piece of aromatic furniture. The most confusing part of the restoration process though, was I didn't know if I should be hanging in a closet or running on a hamster wheel...😉

Decorative Walnut Antique Cedar Chest

Walnut Cedar Chest Before

Having refinished several cedar chests, this was definitely the most decorative and detailed ones I'd ever seen. I had no clue as to its age, as it had no markings on it, but judging by the way it was made and the materials used, I estimated it to be well over one hundred years old. It had no shelf on the inside, as many cedar chests do, but it was roomy enough to store many blankets, quilts and sets of sheets.

In order to properly restore this cedar chest in the best way possible, I removed the back decorative scroll, which had veneer damage, as well as the side scroll features, which were solid walnut, no veneer. The bottom of the chest was missing a back leg post and the veneer was damaged or missing. I knew this would be a major

Walnut Cedar Chest After

project, but to do it justice, it needed to be done right.

After removing the scrollwork, I began the tedious task of stripping the old finish with my choice gel stripper. Stripping is extremely messy work and requires several applications of stripper and many passes with a putty knife. The method I use is slow and steady, but gives excellent results. After liberally applying the stripper, I leave it on a bit, then slowly pull the putty knife toward myself (as to avoid gouging the wood) bringing a thick, gooey layer of the old finish and the now brown stripping compound with it, then swipe the entire mess into a plastic margarine container. (Never underestimate the use of these handy containers!) 

For the hard to reach areas of the cedar chest I used a wide selection of wood carving tools which are quite handy to get into the nooks and crannies, such as the front panel and beaded detail. I scraped as much old finish off as I could with the tool of choice, then used a small brass brush to remove residue I was unable to scrape off. I then used a steel wool pad to remove the rest of the residue prior to sanding. For this cedar chest I chose not to use my orbital sander, instead opting for hand sanding because of the beading and panel detail on the front.

Antique Secretary

Secretary Before

Secretary After

A secretary desk such as this was quite popular in the
early 1900's, used for writing letters and keeping track of bills. Like many items of furniture of this era, it showed its age with missing sections of veneer here and there as well as the wood grain practically gone as aged finishes darken, hiding the lovely wood grain beneath. The lovely details on this secretary included a hand carved decorative rope on the front bottom, a curved drawer and fancy brass handles.

The interior had a built-in cubby section with its own little drawer, perfect for keeping postage stamps, pens and note pads. The back of the secretary was damaged, so we replaced it with a matching section of wood which matched the stain perfectly. This piece was a handful. Because of the detail, stripping was tediously time consuming, especially the rope scrollwork on the the drop down front and the edges of the shelf beneath it. It's hard to see this in the photo, but the shelf edges had three layers carved into it.

Secretary Open Before

Secretary Open After

Having a variety of woodcarving tools is a necessity to remove the old finish down to the bare wood. In order to do the job right, it was necessary to take it apart and strip the components separately. Not only does it look better, it's much easier than trying to get your hand inside those tiny compartments. It's also easier to polish the hardware, a little thing that has a large impact on the finished item. The difference is in the details.


This secretary was made of tiger oak, which has a lot of "movement" and visible grain. This wood looks gorgeous when refinished. One of the many joys of removing old varnish and stain is revealing the hidden wood grain just below the surface. Age darkens the original finishing, thus hiding the beauty of the wood. You never really know beautiful something is until you remove all those layers!

Antique Writing Desk

Writing Desk Before

Writing Desk Before

Long before e-mails, texts, instagram, Facebook and Twitter, people spent a lot of time composing handwritten letters as a way of corresponding with friends and family. There was a sense of satisfaction in holding that special pen and putting it to paper, allowing your thoughts to flow through your hands in a script scral that reflected your unique personality and penmanship. With the electronic, fast paced world we live in, writing letters by hand has all but become a lost art. It's definitely faster to write using a keyboard, but there's something special and magical about writing "old school," using a pen and a piece of lined paper we used in school. While writing that way now gives me writer's cramp (as does long periods of working on my Macintosh), I still enjoy the art of letter writing using fancy stationery and my favorite ink pen. It's a timeless craft that never goes out of style.

Writing Desk After

This antique writing desk was likely used for composing letters by hand and keeping track of bills and correspondence with its five generously sized cubby slots to easily organize one's life. Made of solid walnut, this writing desk had great bones, with surface scratches on the split top and really rusty screws that held the original hinges in place. I knew this would be a very challenging piece to refinish because of the many components and my favorite pet peeve, spindles.

The drawer was removable, which was great because it's much

Writing Desk After

easier to strip and sand a section of an item if it can be removed. Upon further inspection, I discovered that the cubby insert section was also removable, held in place by side boards that slid out, allowing the entire cutty section to be removed. This was a great bonus since it was quite difficult to reach in there to strip the old stain, mostly because I couldn't really see what I was doing. By removing it, I was able to strip it and see all the way to the back so it was done right. Once the removable components were stripped, I began the long, tedious task of stripping the spindles. They are the most difficult and time consuming part of any stripping project because there is simply no fast way to do it.