Mahogany Buffet Refinished

Buffet Before

Buffet After

One of my personal favorite refinishing woods is mahogany. Being a darker wood with a natural reddish tone, when refinished the woodgrain is more apparent, making it look fabulous. When furniture comes out of a manufacturing plant, much of it hides the natural grain of the wood. Unlike refinishing, furniture right from the factory woodgrain isn’t as prominent as it is upon stripping.

This buffet was a good, sturdy piece that had seen some wear, but overall was in great shape. There were minor scratches on the top, a few on the front legs and sides, but nothing that stripping and sanding can’t remove. Surface scratches are almost always removed when sanding, however, if the scratch is a gouge, sanding can only do so much. Especially with veneer furniture. If you sand too deeply, you will remove the veneer and go too far into the wood beneath (big problem!) That’s why we love working with antiques; the wood, even if it has veneer, is thicker and much more durable, thus better to work with on the refinishing end. 

That being said, the finishing product looks fabulous. Once it was stained and protected with satin polyurethane, Jim polished the original hardware, a Federal Style, and once again the piece looked like new (if not better!) I love the way hardware makes a piece truly stand out. Over time the brass will oxidize, faded and dull. But polished, it shines and adds beauty and freshness to any piece of furniture.

The beauty of working with a piece such as this mahogany buffet is that you have so many color choices with stain. Our customer chose “Carrington,” by Varithane. It’s a rich, warm color with no overly red tones. Mahogany can accept most stains, but seldom can you go a lot lighter with it because the wood is naturally reddish and darker, like walnut. A good tip to keep in mind when choosing stain is the wood itself. 

Darker woods usually cannot go much lighter than their natural color, but lighter wood, such as maple, birch or pine can accept both light and dark colors of stain. An example is if you were to put the same color stain on five different types of wood, each one would look different. Some wood has more grain than other wood, such as oak compared to birch. There are also different types of the same wood; tiger oak, tiger maple, birds eye maple, and so many more. The choices are endless as are the stain colors, so it’s not difficult to narrow down which stain is the right one for you.

Luckily we have plenty of experience in choosing the right stain for your project (unless you are 100% sure what you want). But no matter, the finished furniture item will always be the one you love the most.

Two-Drawer Dresser Makeover

 

Two Drawer Dresser
Before

This cute little two drawer dresser was original much lighter and our customer had wanted a completely different look, so she chose two stain colors, black stain on the body and a warmer wood tone on the drawers and top. It was a great choice. We used “Minwax True Black” and “Varithane Carrington” for the wood tone. The two colors married well to create a dynamically elegant piece of furniture. 

Two Drawer Dresser After

She had also wanted artistic gold tones to highlight the bottom decorative scallop and edging as well as the natural curves along the bottom front and side edges. 

After Jim finished with the stain, I applied a craft ink called “Vegas Gold,” to achieve the accent paint she had wanted. I used a small sponge to dab the ink on the scallop decorative area and switched to a tiny paint brush for the thin criss-cross lines on the drawer fronts. I love doing the “crafty” parts of restoration as this gives it a unique look that stands out from the rest. This one was a real beauty.

Sofa Gets Six New Box Cushions

Updated, New Foam w/Tweed Fabric

Outdated Fabric,
Saggy Cushion

If you’ve lived through the 1970’s, you’ll likely have owned or knew someone who owned a sofa with fabric that looked similar to the one on the left. I refer to this as “Brady Bunch” fabric, the popular rust, tan and brown used on the show along with bright orange, green and yellow tones. My parents had a similar style sofa and chair in their living room, but with more green and a smaller plaid than this one. Since the 1970’s, fabrics have changed and we have so many more options in the twenty-first century than we did in the 1970’s. The sofa had a total of six cushions, three seat and three accompanying back cushions.

The original covers had a center seam style with a single row of piping which surrounded the top and bottom seat, along with a rear metal zipper. Modern box cushions are constructed with a top, a bottom and a center “boxing” which includes a zipper placket. The best technique to make these box cushions is to measure the size of the foam and allow at least 5/8” seam allowance for each side. These cushions needed new foam which was 6”, so it was necessary to allow a 7-1/2” zipper placket and a 6-1/2” surround, which is sewn to the completed placket. If all seams are sewn properly and accurately, both fabric sections should line up for a nice, even continuous side boxing. 

For these cushions, it was easier to make the top and bottom portions, adding the piping to each one, then stitching the zipper placket in place using clips, which are easy to move when you’re fitting the placket to the top and bottom fabric. A piping foot is an essential tool for this project. Piping (also known as welting or cording) is comprised of a tightly wrapped polyester cord commonly used in upholstery projects as an insert, for a customized, decorative edge. In apparel, it can be used as a décor item or trim. Piping comes in various thicknesses for different applications. 

These were six loose cushions used on a wood-framed sofa. The foam itself had severely deteriorated (as 50 year old foam will) and was crumbling inside the fabric, leaving a fine, yellow powdery residue. Surprisingly the fabric was not torn or damaged, but was very loose and saggy, due to the cushion no longer holding its shape as a result of shrunken, deteriorated foam. Therefore six new foam cushions was a must, as well as new fabric. If you’re going to invest in new fabric, it’s recommended to get new foam to get the maximum comfort and longest wear. However, if your cushions are still in good shape, they can be used with new fabric. All new foam is then wrapped in Dacron for a nice crown and better shaping.

The customer chose a lovely gray tweed interspersed with off white, nicely woven into the gray. The color combination was great and the fabric was easy to work with, despite it being relatively heavy upholstery material. The stitches were practically invisible (always a bonus) therefore the cushions came together beautifully. They should last many years and provide comfort and support to all who sit on them. 

Dining Room Set Painted

China Cabinet Before

Wow! This was a big job. Lots of pieces and lots of work,

China Cabinet After

attention to detail and planning. A traditional dining set which was selected to be painted for an updated look to match our customer’s new home. The wood tone no longer suited and after selecting various stains in light shades, we moved into a different direction; paint. With thousands of paint colors available with as many names to match, we ended up with “Dorian Gray,” by Sherwin-Williams. It was a great color; light enough to look fresh but not super bright as white would have been.

Hutch Before

The China cabinet had a lot of curves and detail, so the doors and

Hutch After

drawers were removed and the entire cabinet was sanded, primed and painted, interior and exterior. The hardware was also painted in an accent gunmetal gray metallic, which looked splendid with the new paint in a high gloss finish. The hutch got the same treatment. The color really brought out the carving and details of the pieces.

The other challenge was the six chairs, including two armchairs. These had been re-upholstered many years ago with leather with decorative brass nail heads, but it wasn’t what our customer wanted, I suggested double welting instead of decorative nails. 

The chairs took a long time just to remove the fabric, three hours per chair. There were so many nail heads and beneath them, a million or so staples and smaller nails holding the previous leather in place. It was a very time consuming job leaving Jim and I both with sore hands and shoulders. After that each chair had to be masked off on the seat area, sanded, primed and painted. After they dried, they were ready for fabric, which was custom ordered. While waiting for the fabric, I added decorative detailing paint to the top center of each chair, to  highlight the scallop design. It tied both the light and dark gray colors together and matched the painted hardware. It’s fun adding “bling” to a project.

Armchair After

Armchair Before

The fabric our customer chose was a dark gray plush with a nap and was gorgeous for the freshly painted chairs. Cutting fabric has a sequence. First you need to cut a piece about 4” larger than the area you are covering to allow movement and positioning. 

If the fabric has a pattern, you’ll want to pay attention to the focal point and place the pattern in the center of the seat, working around it to center it prior to attaching it. You tack it in place then stretch it to center it. It’s essential to carefully cut around the arms of the chairs so that you aren’t short. You cut in a “Y” seam perpendicular to the chair’s arm. Precision is key here. Once the fabric is stretched into place, have a pneumatic stapler ready and loaded is essential to get the job done efficiently. It’s my new favorite tool. 

The dining room table had three leaves, which made it a fairly large piece. Painting large surfaces requires patience and a lot of skill. The glossy finish was perfect for this classic design. What a difference!

This was a lengthy job with many challenges, but we love how it turned out and that’s the ultimate reward.

Table Before

Table After

Chair Before

Chair After

Antique Caned Chair Replaced Seat

 

Caned Chair Before

Caned Chair After

This is an antique parlor chair which had a broken caned seat. It’s not uncommon for this to happen with old caned chairs. They don’t hold up well to a knee or an active child who decides to jump on the chair as if it were upholstered. Caning is pretty durable but does have its limits.

Caning comes in many sizes, so it’s important to measure the holes in the diameter of the chair’s seat and get the caning that fits those holes. This chair had 1/4” holes, so it used 1/8” caning, which is considered medium. Caning also comes in super fine, medium and larger sizes. The procedure is the same, but I prefer working with the medium size cane since it is stronger than the finer sizes and holds up to the pulling and tugging that comes along with installation. 

Chairs get a lot of use, so the upper portion tends to get dirty from the oils from our hands, so they require cleaning and polishing for them to look fresh again. This one needed a good cleaning and a touch up of polyurethane instead of a complete strip. If a full strip isn’t in the budget, a partial strip usually works well. Either way, the chair is always better than it was prior to the restoration. This chair was made of maple, a hardwood, so it will hold up for many more years to come. If you have a caned chair that is a big saggy, simply lay a damp towel on it overnight and it will tighten the caning again to its original tautness. Just a little tip that allows you to get more use out of the chair before investing in a complete cane renovation. 

Art Deco Vanity Better Than New

 

Vanity after w/o mirror

Vanity Before without mirror

Jim picked up this old vanity from the 1930’s, "art deco style," at an antique shop in Port Huron. It’s got the classic curvy waterfall style as we commonly see in cedar chests. It had five drawers but only four drawer pulls. I had envisioned something completely different, a
refreshing update, so I opted for paint. I chose Sherwin-Williams “Cotton White,” which is one of my favorite off-white colors. This painting preserved the antique look, but with an updated, twenty-first century functionality.

Vanity painted with mirror

Of course, as with every wood project, it’s essential to use a good primer so that the paint will adhere as it should. I actually used two coats of primer for the vanity and mirror. When Jim brought the vanity and mirror home, they were detached, so I had to take the photos separately since we didn’t put it together just for photos. Mirrors are super hard to photograph because they reflect whatever is opposite them, therefore I used a white sheet to block out the basement background (my workspace) but you get the idea. 

The mirror had some really cool design features. At the top there was an inverted curve of wood that had a carved flower motif in the center. That piece of wood, along with two metal brackets, held the mirror in place. 

To prepare the mirror for painting, I removed the mirror by removing the decorative piece of wood along with the mirror brackets, set them aside to be painted a different color. I sanded and primed the mirror and painted it to match the vanity. The bottom of the mirror had a decorative piece of wood that mimicked the front legs with an inverted curve. Both top and bottom wood accents were painted silver glitter. I opted to hand paint the flower in the center of the top mirror wood insert and it was the perfect little touch of glam. I painted the center drawer a bright tangerine and lemon yellow for the rest of the side drawers. I lined the bottom of the drawers with a super sparkly silver drawer liner. It was that perfect special touch that adds a bit of bling.

Once everything was done and the paint had dried sufficiently, Jim installed the new nickel drawer pulls which were the perfect finishing touch to this spectacular old piece of furniture.

Drawer liner center drawer

         

        Drawer liners

   

New nickel hardware

Antique Bench Trash To Treasure Showpiece

Antique Loveseat After

Antique Loveseat Before

Everyone has heard the term “One man’s trash is another man’s treasure.” This is one example of it. Our customer had told us his wife had found this bench on the side of the road. Evidently someone had tossed it out, with the trash. Luckily she saw the beauty hidden beneath a century of grime, dirt and stains. It had been in his workshop for a while so he decided to surprise her for Christmas and get it refinished.

This loveseat had a strong structure. Nothing was broken, just old and stained out fabric. This was going to be a challenge both of us would welcome. Little did we know just how gorgeous the wood beneath would become and present us with a showpiece.

After Jim removed the old fabric and springs, he began the tedious task of stripping the old finish. He discovered that this bench had never been re-upholstered, all was original, hence the stains and saggy seat. The underside of the bench had a vertical support board in the center on which a spring was mounted that was much higher than the other springs. This caused it to lift up past the rest of the springs. More likely the case was that the spring that was installed was a bit too large for that area and a smaller spring should have been used since it would have a different tension than the springs which were attached to the webbing. This wouldn’t be a problem because my plan was to use webbing with foam and cotton batting instead of springs. 

Jim was rather unsure of how the wood would accept the stain once he had the old finish completely stripped and sanded. He discovered the wood was quite “splotchy” and he thought it would maintain that look after it was stained. I realized that I’d seen this before, this type of reddish splotchy look in a couple of chairs I’d done before. They were made of bloodwood, which has this type of appearance. Bloodwood can be found in southern Africa. It is very unique because once the tree is cut, it “bleeds” with a reddish sap. This tree has medicinal qualities that can be used for healing. If you’d like to read more about bloodwood, check out this link: https://www.amusingplanet.com/2014/05/the-bloodwood-tree.html

We mixed two stains to create the perfect mix for this bench and wow! The color was perfect for the look we’d envisioned! The splotchy appearance was no longer visible. The stain flowed and covered the wood beautifully and we were very happy with the results. After Jim worked his magic with the stain and polyurethane, I could work mine. We chose the perfect fabric, a lovely gold threaded diamond pattern on a burgundy background. This is traditional fabric which we both agreed would be perfect for our customer’s décor. I used time and true upholstery techniques and lined the bottom with new webbing. (My pneumatic stapler is my favorite new tool!) 

Once the webbing was in place, I secured burlap over the top to strengthen the seat and maintain the tension. I had a 2” section of high density foam which was cut to size and placed on top of the burlap. Followed by Dacron, which was securely stapled around the perimeter. This added thickness and a firm seat. This was followed up with layered poly batting, creating a “crown” so the center of the bench curved with nice, rounded lines. Once everything was secured, I was able to install the beautiful fabric. We we right, it worked great. The last and final step was stapling the dust cover to the bottom to cover the webbing and finish off the bench. 

This was truly a gorgeous piece of furniture. And to think, someone tossed it out with the trash. Now it’ll become someones treasure for another century. Long after I’m gone, this bench will be gracing the home of future generations. I’m thrilled to be a part of it! This was definitely one of our favorites, a showpiece.

To see the other bloodwood furniture, check out this link: http://finalefurniture.blogspot.com/search?q=bloodwood+chair

Six Chairs Get New Seat

Chair After

Chair Before

This was one of a set of six oak chairs. The chairs were a bit wobbly, but overall in good condition. At one time these chairs had caned seats, but the caning was long gone and replaced with a thin board and covered with vinyl. That was also a long time ago and the vinyl then needed to be replaced. In addition to replacing the seat, we tightened up the loose joints and gave each chair a good cleaning. The customer chose a dark brown vinyl, which was much like the old covering. She’d wanted to keep the same look.

Sometimes jobs are tough and other times they’re fairly simple. This was was a combination of both. The tightening of loose joints can be time consuming because in addition to gluing up the joints, the correct way to repair them is to glue and clamp them, usually overnight. It’s essential to use the right glue (you’d be surprised how many chairs we get with the wrong glue!) Wood glue is preferred, but you can use other glue, as long as it can be used for wood in addition to other surfaces.

This is called a “ladder back” chair. It has curvy horizontal back support with simple spindles on the bottom four sides. These chairs are one of many styles we have worked on over the years. We try to keep each chair as original as possible, when it’s what the customer wants. 

Very Old Rocking Chair Gets a “Boost"

Rocking Chair Before
Saggy seat!

This rocking chair was estimated to be about 150 years old. My customer’s grandmother had installed the pink fabric (seen on the photo on the left) in the 1930’s, so it definitely had seen a lot of wear since then, which was over 80 years ago. Unbelievably, the fabric had maintained its overall condition, with no rips or other damage, but the seating itself had sunken in the center. Sagging happens over time, no matter how the chair had been originally constructed. And this one was reupholstered over 80 years ago, so sagging was not unusual. The upholstery work was done very well with unseen nails and tiny stitches. Quality lasts.

Rocking Chair after
Higher padding in the seat

Since my customer had wanted the chair refinished in addition to replacing the worn, outdated fabric, the first step was to remove the old fabric and all the padding, webbing and dust cover that’s beneath the seat. Once the fabric and padding, etc. was removed, the tedious task of stripping was the next step.

Chairs have a lot of surface area, therefore they take a long time to strip and refinish, because you must remove all the original stain prior to sanding and re-staining it. (See video at bottom). The detail in this chair with its dowels on the front arms and across the front crosspiece took the most amount of time, but the rockers themselves were also a challenge because they were harder to reach because of their location beneath the chair. I spent five long afternoons to remove all the finish, sand and re-stain the chair. Two coats of polyurethane applied over 24 hours was the final step prior to moving ahead with installing the new fabric. 

Unfinished 
Rocker

Prepping the chair for fabric is essential and involves replacing the original webbing with new webbing, making sure it’s nice and taut so the seat is built with a strong foundation. This chair had seat and back webbing, as well as front and back fabric on the backing. The seat area of the chair had some damage. It was broken on one side and the webbing had come apart, causing the sagging seat. I repaired the damage before installing the new webbing.

New Webbing
After Refinishing

After the webbing has been secured with staples on the folded edges, the next step is covering it with burlap. This strengthens the seat even further. (See photo on right). I then put a fitted piece of high density foam on the burlap, covered it with nice, thick cotton batting and finished it with Dacron, stapling everything in place. Last is the fabric. In this case, I was installing directional fabric. This means the fabric is installed in the “up” direction. Most fabric manufacturers have a line on the border side, with an arrow that points to the top of the fabric. This is vital, because the last thing you want is to get the fabric fitted perfectly only to find out it is upside-down!! Ugh!

The most difficult part of putting fabric on any chair with arms, is making sure you cut the fabric towards the arms with a “Y” cut. This gives you enough fabric to wrap it around each arm before folding and tucking the fabric securely next to either side of the arms prior to securing it with staples. It’s a long, labor-intensive process and should not be rushed. Installing the fabric properly requires concentration with no distractions so that you can focus on what you’re doing. If not, you may make costly mistakes. 

I got lucky with this chair, because the back of the arms had a screw and were removable, so that I could slide the fabric beneath it, which made the installation nice and clean with no cut lines required. Not all chairs have that option, in which case you have to make those tricky cuts, but sometimes you get lucky. After I finished the front, making sure the fabric was tightly wrapped and secured to the back, I adding the final piece of fabric, folding the edges and finished it with piping. 

Amish Oak Table and Chairs Painted and Stained

Dining Table Before
(without leaves)

 

Dining Table and Chairs
Painted w/Stained Top

This lovely oak table came with two leaves and six chairs. Our customer had wanted a different, updated look so we suggested painting combined with keeping the table top woodgrain, but staining it little darker. 

They had originally envisioned an antique white, but after reviewing their décor choices, settled on latté, which is exactly as it sounds, a coffee color with a generous amount of cream added for that perfect flavor, or in this case, color combination. 

Prepping furniture for paint, especially chairs, takes patience and time. Mainly because it is all done by hand. You can’t use a power sander for chairs (except minimally) and spend hours scuffing up all the surface area to prepare it for first primer then two coats of paint. You also can’t skimp on the prep work as it directly effects the outcome of the project. 

We stripped and stained the table top, which had minor scratches, a rich, dark walnut to bring out the beautiful wood tones. The table’s pedestal base was painted to match the chairs, all done in latté. While some people simply do not like to paint furniture, there are times when painting is a nice choice. But by no means are you limited to using only paint. The combination of using paint and stain marries two distinct styles into a well-blended upgrade to outdated furniture without sacrificing the original integrity. 

The chairs, having many spindles, take a great deal of time to prep for painting. Chairs, period, are one the most time-consuming of all furniture projects, because there's so much surface area on a chair. Plus, the more detail (hence, spindles), the longer it takes to prep them. It’s also why chairs can be costly to refinish (or paint). All those surfaces need the same amount of attention and prep time. Ultimately, you have many colors in both stain and paint to choose from for your perfect furniture project.

Antique Parlor Chair Gets New Caning

 

Cane Chair Before

Cane Chair After

When a knee ends up in the seat of a caned chair, well, you have a problem, but not to worry, because it is fixable. It simply needs to be replaced with new caning. This antique parlor chair (it was so cute) had a perfectly round seat with a broken caned center. Like many caned chairs, they are not designed for a sudden, rapid force, such as a knee pushed in the center or a child who jumps from the chair, using it as a launching pad. Cane breaking is not uncommon, especially in old chairs. Unfortunately there’s no quick way to “fix” them. The cane must be replaced.

This little gem had strand caning, which is the weaving that requires a hank of cane in a specified size that is woven directly onto the holes surrounding the perimeter of the seat. I actually prefer this caning to the “press in” spline caning, because the process is quite relaxing. I work on chairs in my lovely sunroom (lots of natural daylight) while trying to keep my cats away from their natural instinct of pulling at what I’m tugging, which is each strand of cane as I weave it through the chair! They indeed love playing. Sadie likes to “sneak” off with a section of cane then run away, feeling like she got away with it. 😂

This chair had spindles on the front legs and overall, the chair was in great shape. You can’t beat hardwood, especially in antiques. They made furniture to last back then. Therefore when people ask the question, “Is it worth restoring?” I always answer with “yes,” because you already have the value in the chair (or other furniture item) so why not get it refinished and keep it another 100 years. It’s something to pass down for future generations. Because once they’re gone, they’re gone. Preserving the past, a bit of history, is a great way to appreciate the artistry created by someone who may not be around anymore. Get it done and you won’t regret it.

Sadie, my “helper"

Drum Table from Bleak to Beautiful Black

Drum Table Painted

Drum Table Before

 A classic drum table is one of the most loved furniture items in traditional homes. This popular table has many uses and can fit almost anywhere. This drum table had a unique top with what we originally thought to be leather, but it had a paper origin and couldn’t be removed, so stripping and staining it was not an option. I recommend painting it black and it was unanimously agreed that would be the best solution for the most attractive outcome. 

This table had wheels that were kept, but in addition to the original brass hardware needed cleaning. It’s amazing just how great brass hardware polishes up. What you almost don’t notice becomes the star of the show! Hardware is like the “bling” or jewelry for any furniture. If you like the original look but want to it show up better, polishing it is a great option. We’ve also had luck with painting hardware when polishing either isn’t desired, or the customer wants a different color. So many choices! 

Many of these tables were made in the late 1930’s, but some, like this one, is a reproduction. You can usually tell by looking at how the table is assembled whether or not is is an original. Older, antique furniture makers used much larger screws and their assembly techniques were significantly different than factory reproductions. The antiques are actually easier to work on because the wood is usually much higher quality and refinishes perfectly. 

There are some die-hard traditionalists that don’t like the look of painted furniture, but sometimes it’s the best option when the wood used either isn’t that great (as in mixing and matching) or doesn’t take the stain well. In our experience, if a piece comes to us painted, there’s a 50/50 chance it won’t stain well. But each piece has a different story and history, so until you strip, you can’t know for sure. But one thing is for certain and that is the end result is always better than what you started with, no matter what option you choose.